Keyless Ignition Mod HOW TO WITH PICS

It's possible to adapt that.
Use the diode-latching relay configuration per my design earlier in the thread (as utilized by bagman) using the 'start' output (Blue) from alarm to set the ignition latch instead of cranking starter.
Cut the link between 1 & 2 on the OEM alarm bypass connector and connect the grey & pink wires to each of those. (you can also connect the Orange (Ignition on) to pin 1.
i.e. connect Orange & Pink to '1' and Grey to '2'
If you get terminals for the bypass connector, you can also pick up battery constant & ground wires & outs to turn signals off that connector & make it plug n play.

I must be missing something. I ran the wh/bl wire to pin 87, the orange is left out.
The other 5 are all wired to 30.

I have the same remote as on the original post. Something is not right (probably with how the remote is wired)

Never mind. I just needed sleep so I could think right.
This works great.
Now I'm Happy Happy Happy

Ok, I need some help here: My 07 Classic got the dreaded ignition switch gremlin Friday evening. I needed to get it running fast, but also wanted to do the wireless remote setup when I have time. My plan was to set it up with the relay under the left side cover, and install a 30a rocker switch in the little knock-out hole on the left side. That way, after getting a remote switch off E-bay, I could just disconnect the rocker switch, wire in the remote switch, and be good to go.

My plan is to leave the rocker switch in place after wiring the remote, just to have it as a back-up if the wireless setup ever goes tits-up. I also wired everything into the ignition side of the plug rather than cutting the engine side, so as to leave the main harness intact. That way installing a replacement ignition cylinder and putting it back to stock is just a matter of plugging it in if someone down the line is inclined to do that.

I connected the wires from the ignition bundle to the 30 and 87 pins of a 40a relay w/14 gage wire, and the rocker switch wires to the 85/86, and reconnected the battery. Nothing, not even a click. I then plugged the rocker switch spades to the leads that go to the harness, and she lit right up. I'm guessing I got a bad relay ($5 Chinese deal from Auto Zone after all), but wanted to be sure I didn't *****something up. For the time being, it's at least rideable. Ideas?

Marky Mark said:

.....and the rocker switch wires to the 85/86, and reconnected the battery. ...

Click to expand...

Are you saying you connected one side of switch to 85 and the other to 86?
That will do indeed do nothing
Connect 86 to battery positive and 85 to battery negative via the switch)

Batt + -> Relay 86

Batt - -> Switch common -> Switch N/O -> to Relay 85

Thanks. Ok, I feel stupid now.

Clarify this for me, though... where do to you tap power to operate the switch side, just run a lead straight from the battery?

It has to be a permanent 'live' feed - so either the battery or starter solenoid input terminal or accessory socket or similar
Or tap off either purple wire or the orange wire coming off the fuse panel

Note that you you can put the switch in either the negative or the positive leg, at your own choice.

Thanks. The world should be thankful I'm a criminology major and not an engineer

DEcosse, great mod man thanks for sharing it mate. I would like to attempt it myself but I need a bit more advice please. I ended up getting the device you highlighted in a previous post. Click and lights by MSD. Cheap as chips from the states. It has Red (+), black (-) and 2 white wires which go to your device. On the device itself it says RF315mhz, is that ok for the mod..? And also on your diagram would i connect 1 white wire to pin 86 on first relay (per your diagram) and the other white wire to kill switch and that would complete the circuit..? And final question. Pins 85 on all 3 relays, are they to be Earthed somewhere on the bike..? Thank you so much for your help and thanks for saving us from this ignition problem. .

Can you link to the specific device you purchased please?
Was this just a remote switch?

Generally yes, all the 85's go to battery ground (earth) -or connect to another wire in the ground distribution. Do not use the frame as a grounding point for ANY accessories.

See the diagram in my post 33 or the one in post #38 - that is my design but elegantly re-drawn by bagman.
The two diodes - one on the wire coming back from the kill switch and the one between the remote output and the primary relay - are important and should be installed.
The diodes across each of the relay coils can eliminated if you just buy diode or resistor suppressed relays at the outset.

Note that if eliminating the Key-Switch completely, you do not need a third relay between the red/blue and red/orange wires (blue & red on the key-switch harness) - these can just be joined together.
So you can eliminate completely. (the park light circuit is already switched by the main lighting pole - it is only required to be separate pole when the park position on the keyswitch is utilized - no keyswitch, no special park position )

If you want to to keep the ignition circuit isolated from the ignition circuit, use that third relay instead to switch the green wire (yellow on keyswitch harness) on the 87, with a jumper from the White Blue over to the 30 of this relay. Or just leave the green and the blue/yellow tied together if you want to get down to 2 relays.

Thanks heaps for that DEcosse.. I will follow your advice and diagram to the T..

Here's the item I bought, let me know if it's any good.
Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=350965353954