Keyless Ignition Mod HOW TO WITH PICS

[Marky Mark]

Ok, thanks, DEcosse, that makes sense now. I understand some basic electric 101 stuff, but get lost pretty easily! I actually like the RFID setups like Digital Guard Dawg, where it arms on proximity without pushing any buttons, and may go to something like that eventually.

I was always told not to use the kill switch on any bike, and have tended to follow that - not sure whether that's good advice or an old wives tail about the kill switch going bad if you use it to kill the motor.

 

[DEcosse]

.... I actually like the RFID setups like Digital Guard Dawg, where it arms on proximity without pushing any buttons ....

I have my own design for completely hands-free keyless system -

I was always told not to use the kill switch on any bike... not sure whether that's good advice or an old wives tail ....

The latter applies - total nonsense that is causes potential harm; the Kill switch breaks the circuit at the exact same node as the key-switch - the only difference is the Key-switch also has separate circuits for the lights and ancillaries, so regardless of turning off with the Kill the key must still be turned off*. That is the reason for the recommendation (and that's all it is!) in the User Manual - so the lights don't get inadvertently left on.

* with my latch design (as going to be employed by bennyp38) however, the Kill switch will indeed drop everything (because it is the ignition circuit that is maintaining the relay latch)

 

[Marky Mark]

The latter applies - total nonsense that is causes potential harm; the Kill switch breaks the circuit at the exact same node as the key-switch - the only difference is the Key-switch also has separate circuits for the lights and ancillaries, so regardless of turning off with the Kill the key must still be turned off*

The rationale I always heard was that kill switches aren't particularly robust and prone to corrode, so the less you use them, the lower the chances of it failing and leaving you stranded. The kill switch on my Aprilia Caponord was badly corroded, and replacing it was a bear... It plugs into the back of the instrument cluster, which required dismantling the entire inner fairing, and removing the gas tank completely. Every part I took off revealed something else that needed to be removed.

Fortunately the RIII is a lot easier to wrench than the Aprilia, which appears to be designed by the same team as that Fiat 124 I had in high school...

 

[charlie farley]

Hi all, got all the bits to do the single really mod but I have to ask what could be a stupid question when all the connections are made do I plug the block with just the orange wire back in to where it was thus connecting it back to the ignition switch?

 

[DEcosse]

got all the bits to do the single really mod

I'm sorry to seemingly discredit the original poster (discredit is not my intention):
Using a single relay is a throw-back to 1960's wiring where everything went through a single switch - back when bikes had no-where near the loads they do now.
If you have capability to add ONE relay, you have ability to add multiples and keep the circuits isolated per the original design.
As I pointed out earlier in thread putting everything into a single circuit means that you can possibly shut entire bike down if a problem happens in one circuit.

...Now take ALL of the other wires and combine them together in any fashion that you can so that they are all the same continuity and take a single wire from that bundle to the 30 pin or spade of the auto relay. I made a splice using multiple butt splices down to a single conductor like a "cat of nine tails" but there are crimp style connectors at the parts houses that work better for this.

However if you DO insist on using one relay (or regardless, even if using two) then there is no need to add the orange/red & orange/blue wires into the relay circuit as per original suggestion - these two wires can simply be connected together. The only reason they go through the switch to begin with is because of the 'Park' position feature - if switch is removed (or that position never used) there is no need to go through the relay. And besides, connecting them into same pole as other wires (again, as per original suggestion) defeats the possibility of the park position anyway.
So whichever relay plan you use, these do not require to (and should NOT) be connected into the relay.

But I strongly recommend using at least a second relay, where the 30/87 contacts are for the Orange & Orange/Green- Black/Blue wires.

Also - if key-switch is still functional, no need to cut the wires out of the key-switch connector, just tap onto the wires with Positaps - then either Key OR remote can by utilized without having to remove it or cut wires from connector, further, preserving integrity of original wiring.

 

[charlie farley]

thanks for the advice DEcosse and yes 3 relays will preserve stock circuits only thing now is im confused as to the use of diodes and where to tap into for the relay feeds ,I don't mean to sound dumb but id rather ask and do it right than it all go very wrong.
charlie

 

[warp9.9]

CAUTION ELECTRICAL GENIUS AT WORK HERE

 

[charlie farley]

thanks Warp for the vote of confidence who needs heated grips when the whole bike is glowing.

 

[charlie farley]

Well i did some searching looked at some diagrams got me head round where and how to best go about the task got 3 relays and got on with the job all done and works brilliant .
Thanks to all for the information and warp for realising my full potential.
thankyou ,
charlie farley

 

[DEcosse]

... got 3 relays

Only two relays are needed - unless you want to preserve the original 'park' position feature while retaining the keyswitch (does anyone actually use that????)
otherwise just connect the red & blue wires together, no relay
It's not that it won't work with relay on that circuit, simply that it is superfluous