Keyless Ignition Mod HOW TO WITH PICS

[daveco]

keyless ignition

does any one out there know where i can get a wireless remote. I am unable to find any one in the u.k. who sells them .thanks davco.

 

[DEcosse]

....where i can get a wireless remote. I am unable to find any one in the u.k. who sells them ...

Here's the one I highlighted earlier with the momentary output
12V MOMENTARY REMOTE CONTROL 0V OUTPUT SWITCH RP11 | eBay
He ships WorldWide for total incl shipping of $29.25 (about 18 quid)
- You MUST use the diode latch per the schematic I showed to use that one.

Here is another unit that is on EBay UK
12V remote control switch, 2 keyfobs, 6A max. POPULAR! | eBay UK

About a pound less for the UK one and ships from inside the UK.

That does not specifically say whether it is momentary or latching - but since the remote appears to have an 'on' & 'off' button, would appear to be latching.
Also note that it only switches 6A so again, you MUST use the same relay connections I indicated
If you go with that one (just because it's more local), I would probably wire it the same way as my indicated circuit, with the diode feedback latch. If you use the clutch switch on the negative side, it should drop the remote controller output when you release the clutch lever.
If you don't wish to use the clutch interlock, then just turn it on, then immediately off (i.e. a manual momentary action) and it will set & maintain the latch through the feedback diode into the primary relay.

Personally, I would go with the momentary from US about the same price.

 

[daveco]

remote ignition

thanks for all that info. decosse. as i do not know any thing about electrics i will let my triumph dealer do the job. But i think i will go for the u.s. one as you recomend. Once again decosse thanks for your help.

 

[DEcosse]

... as i do not know any thing about electrics i will let my triumph dealer do the job...

I wouldn't be so sure they know a whole lot more!

All joking aside, unless they are reading this forum they won't know what to do with that momentary switch so I would recommend you discuss it with them before you buy it.
That momentary switch/diode latch technique in this application - as well as use of the clutch switch - is my own innovation and I have not seen anyone else use this method for implemation of a remote control.

Also, the biggest issue with the Rocket is finding the OEM connectors to make a plug n play kit that will fit into the key-switch connector. They are Sumitomo DL 8-way connectors but a source for them has been elusive so far. It's not like these are available from a Triumph Dealer as stand-alone parts.
If those were available, it would be easy to make a complete plug n play kit.

If it was my bike, I would use the same series connector, but in the available 10-way which IS available from Eastern Beaver- that will allow the terminals from the 8-way connector to be re-populated into the same type of connector shell without requiring any wires to be cut.
i.e. By just swapping the connector shells around, you can preserve all the integrity of OEM system - even reversible if/when required without too much work to repopulate the original 8-way male shell back onto the keyswitch harness terminals again - no need to reterminate the actual wires/terminals themselves.



If you plan to do away with the key-switch altogether (which you would only retain as a back-up if desired) then it becomes easier, just using the shell off the key-switch harness to make the same harness as above but with no connector for the key-switch

i.e.
Simplified Harness - No KeySwitch

 

[daveco]

Ignition harness

thanks for all the exra info. decosse. looks like the ignition by pass harness is the easy way to go. I have photo copied all your earlier plans for my dealer but i will also take your new ones also. I will let you know what they say.thanks for all your help.

 

[DEcosse]

You're welcome Dave
Just be sure they are not tempted to cut off any of your OEM connectors - it is a simple operation to just remove the terminals from the shell. But dealer techs normally don't get involved to that level - if a connector is bad/broken, they would typically just replace the smallest available assembly it is part of - in some cases that would mean the whole wiring harness.
The diodes are key in my schematic - they cannot be disregarded.

 

[daveco]

Saw the tech. guy and he looked at all the info you gave me. He said the plans were good and that would be the best way to go. Ordered all the parts so just waiting on them coming. about 2 weeks i recon . then hopefully get the job done. cheers mate.

 

[bagman]

Install Notes

ok, so here's my notes on installing this on a rocket:

Parts Used:
LED Remote 15a
sumitomo dl sealed 10 position connectors x2
14awg wire
18awg wire
20a relay & socket x3
2 position connector x2
Terminals - Tyco Part # 175030-1; RS Stock No. 362-9389 x3
Diodes x5
heat shrink


Notes:
I used the LED remote for this setup. The RFID reader could be directly swapped for this by adding the 2 pi connector described later.

Since the 8 pin connectors are unavailable, I changed them out for the 10 pin connectors that are available from eastern beaver. Be sure to remove the orange retainer before trying to de-pin the stock connectors.

The 10 pin connectors will only accept 1 wire per position so I built my harness a little different. I crimped 2 14awg wires together at the relay and ran 1 ea to the connector. This was for the 30 & 87 ports on the relays 2 & 3. On relay 1 port 30 I connected the same as above. Relay 1 port 87 was a little different. I connected 2 14awg wires to the port and then added 2 more to each of those wires plus added an 18awg wire to supply power to the other 2 relays on port 86. Because I was crimping multiple items together, I first crimped the pin on and then soldered the wire & pin together.

Now since we changed the 8 pin to 10 pin connectors, I ran the ground for the relays & the power from the kill switch to positions 9 & 10 on the relay connector to the main harness. Then ran from position 9 & 10 of the wire harness connector to the alarm connector position 4 & 9.

The alarm connector & the left side handle bar harness use the same style connector. I pulled pin 5 from the left side handle bar harness and connected thru pin 7 of the main wire harness, then thru pin 2 of my two wire harness, to the ground from the LED remote to it using a new pin.

I built a 2 wire harness with connectors on either end to run from the relays to the LED remote. The one wire of the relay end connected to port 86 on relay one & the other to the clutch switch (pin 5 from the left side handle bar harness)

The LED remote side connected to the output signal & to the ground wire.

I connected the 12v power wire of the LED remote to the PC8 I installed previously.

Once you have everything installed, make sure to push the relays & connectors as far forward as you can. The tank bulges down into that cavity. If the relays & connectors are not pushed far enough forward the tank will not sit down all the way.

Key works as normal
kill switch off and clutch out - hit the on button on the remote - nothing happens
kill switch off and clutch in - hit the on button on the remote - powers on (if you release the clutch it powers off)
kill switch on and clutch in - hit the on button on the remote - powers on and stays on until you turn off the kill switch

The off button on the remote is not needed.

Here is the updated drawing.

 

[scowherd]

Can someone provide me a link were I can purchase a wireless remote rated at 15 or 20 amps.

 

[bagman]

Can someone provide me a link were I can purchase a wireless remote rated at 15 or 20 amps.

Amazon.com: Logisys 12V 15AMP Relay Kit Remote Control DC Connector RM02: Electronics
Amazon.com: CYRON RC2-12 12VDC On/Off Remote: Automotive

the first one is the one I used.