mully95
Living Legend
Even though I have my bike in neutral and with the switch on I HAVE to have the clutch pull in to start the engine. Will the keyless start over ride that feature? I have a 2010 Roadster.
Keyless Ignition Mod HOW TO WITH PICS
- Thread starter JoseyR3Wales
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- ignition
would this mod make the h4 relay kit moot since your bypassing the key?
anyone found the new style connector part#? been looking all over the place. the kawasaki 8 pin is extremely close, but missing the keys. thinking of adding another connector in to add this mod.
anyone found the new style connector part#? been looking all over the place. the kawasaki 8 pin is extremely close, but missing the keys. thinking of adding another connector in to add this mod.
DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
Hi all - found this site/thread after seeing a reference while helping another member on 'another' Triumph forum.
If I can comment on the mod as written:
(this feedback is intended purely constructively!)
- there are two issues with connecting all the wires together and through a single relay:
1) you bypass OEM fuses 4 & 8, so any minor issues on these circuits will blow the main fuse 2.
2) If you put the key-switch to 'park' the ignition and main lights & auxiliary circuits will also all be activated.
To preserve the integrity of the original circuit protection/functionality, 3 relays should be used to mimic the 3 separate poles utilized in the key-switch.
You can also use an RFID reader (super cheap on EBay, about $10)
But this connection diagram will work with the remote system also
The 'key' to operation is the feedback through the diode from the output of the Kill Switch - that will latch the primary relay on, regardless of what happens with the remote.
Here is video of my system in operation
YouTube - P1102332‏
I have since superceded that with a completely hands-free system using a modified automotive alarm by K9 Sombra.
Details of that are here
If I can comment on the mod as written:
(this feedback is intended purely constructively!)
- there are two issues with connecting all the wires together and through a single relay:
1) you bypass OEM fuses 4 & 8, so any minor issues on these circuits will blow the main fuse 2.
2) If you put the key-switch to 'park' the ignition and main lights & auxiliary circuits will also all be activated.
To preserve the integrity of the original circuit protection/functionality, 3 relays should be used to mimic the 3 separate poles utilized in the key-switch.
You can also use an RFID reader (super cheap on EBay, about $10)
But this connection diagram will work with the remote system also
The 'key' to operation is the feedback through the diode from the output of the Kill Switch - that will latch the primary relay on, regardless of what happens with the remote.
Here is video of my system in operation
YouTube - P1102332‏
I have since superceded that with a completely hands-free system using a modified automotive alarm by K9 Sombra.
Details of that are here
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this will work the same with the LED remote also. Wiring it this way removes the worries of hitting the off button on the remote while riding and killing the bike, and the on button after you've walked away from the bike and draining the battery.
DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
It will indeed. The other benefit besides those you mention is that you don't need to dig the remote out again to shut it off. Just operate the Kill and it will drop the latch. Turning Kill back to run will then require another remote pulse to activate
edit - as I look at that LED remote unit more closely, it appears to already be a latching device; if using the diode sustained latch per my diagram, it would be better to have the remote output be a one-shot momentary action.
Here is a momentary remote switch that would be perfect
RM11 MOMENTARY switch 1 channel 12v output DC remote control
That only has output while you hold the button - ideal. That will set the latch and you can release the button.
Cheaper too!
(absolutely no affiliation with seller - just an example I found in search)
scowherd
Top Fuel
Help.....
Getting ready to leave town for some serious Riding and my ignition switch is acting up... It is working as of now but I would like to be prepared to do something roadside if need be to keep it running. Is there a way I could just use a toggle switch to bypass the key if so what do I need and what wires go where..... Please dumb down the instruction if you could I don't have a lot of brain cells left after raa VI
Getting ready to leave town for some serious Riding and my ignition switch is acting up... It is working as of now but I would like to be prepared to do something roadside if need be to keep it running. Is there a way I could just use a toggle switch to bypass the key if so what do I need and what wires go where..... Please dumb down the instruction if you could I don't have a lot of brain cells left after raa VI
DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
I PM'd you with some emergency info that is not safe to post publicly.
If I was going on a trip however, would advise better to bite the bullet, remove the switch and repair (typically re-solder the wire/pad) before you leave.
Right, but connecting the ground of the led remote to the clutch switch should cause it to unlatch once you release the clutch, correct?
DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
Yes, good input! It also means you have to be actually on/at the bike to have the clutch pulled as additional interlock.
(which is a bonus in my mind)
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