Just got dynoed, 130 hp does not impress me

Pig9r said:

Is that corrected HP? Or standard? I know SAE corrected isn't used much outside of the US. You might do some research on the difference of the two. Especially if it was a hot and humid day.

Relative Horsepower Calculator

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Uncorrected dyno numbers are useless.

Corrections for altitude and atmospheric conditions allow you to get the same readings summer through winter, at any altitude.

SAE horsepower is 1.4% lower than SP/DIN used in the rest of the world.

the Dyno printout says:

SAE J1349 corr.f 0.990

don't know what it means though..

I've no other Rockets to compare mine with, but am ready to start swapping tunes thanks to Tune ecu. i'm looking for a dyno near me to see what my Roadster makes with tors and the Triumph tune to match, as set up when I bought it. With 4500 miles on the clock now it should be as loose as it's going to get. then I'll open the secondaries 100% and start looking at the remaining cat box.

I also have a 955 Sprint ST and swapping between the bikes, the ST is faster I think but you have to rev it of course. ST makes about 95 hp @ 8500 rpm & 70 ft-lbs at 6000 at the rear wheel and weighs 210kg. The Roadster weighs about 335kg in the same state , so to match the ST would need half as much extra power ie about 140hp.
A bit of a shame as I thought the Roadster would be quicker, but it is a lot more flexible and scores when you need quick pick up to pass at unexpected chances, whereas the ST needs dropped a gear or two, and by that time you've missed your chance.. I really want more the power lower down, and don't want to lose any torque, so I'm not too bothered about max power numbers.

But I didn't buy the Roadster as a sports bike and it's great two-up, you can cruise at 50-60 and just open it up in top for passing no bother. or cruise a lot faster........but she complains! And my rear tyre only lasted 3500, and the front won't see 5000 either. more £££

Leif Almberg said:

the Dyno printout says:

SAE J1349 corr.f 0.990

don't know what it means though..

Click to expand...

SAE J1349 means it is corrected to SAE output to include internal engine friction. There are two formulas used - JUN1990, and AUG2004, with the 04 version including all accessories (engine dynos only), and a slightly more accurate correction between the temps range 15º-35º C (59º-95º F).

The corr.f 0.990 is the correction for the dyno run based on atmospheric conditions during the run - temp, pressure, humidity.

You have to watch where the atmospheric condition measurements are taken. You need to measure what is going into the engine, not just measure what is occuring on a wall a few feet away. There can be fairly important differences.

Power-Tripp said:

SAE J1349 means it is corrected to SAE output to include internal engine friction. There are two formulas used - JUN1990, and AUG2004, with the 04 version including all accessories (engine dynos only), and a slightly more accurate correction between the temps range 15º-35º C (59º-95º F).

The corr.f 0.990 is the correction for the dyno run based on atmospheric conditions during the run - temp, pressure, humidity.

You have to watch where the atmospheric condition measurements are taken. You need to measure what is going into the engine, not just measure what is occuring on a wall a few feet away. There can be fairly important differences.

Click to expand...

I saw the guy press a button "get weather data" or similar on the control board for the dyno. this should mean that it is compensated for weather?

och2pot said:

I also have a 955 Sprint ST and swapping between the bikes, the ST is faster I think but you have to rev it of course. ST makes about 95 hp @ 8500 rpm & 70 ft-lbs at 6000 at the rear wheel and weighs 210kg. The Roadster weighs about 335kg in the same state , so to match the ST would need half as much extra power ie about 140hp.
A bit of a shame as I thought the Roadster would be quicker, but it is a lot more flexible and scores when you need quick pick up to pass at unexpected chances, whereas the ST needs dropped a gear or two, and by that time you've missed your chance.. I really want more the power lower down, and don't want to lose any torque, so I'm not too bothered about max power numbers.

Click to expand...

Think about it this way:
Torque is what moves the bike with you on it.
HP is just torque at a given rpm.
Gearing multiplies the torque, and transmits it to the pavement.
It takes more torque to accelerate more mass.

The sprint revs higher, thus is able to use gearing as a torque multiple. On your Sprint, you downshift to get more torque multiplication. On your rocket, you want more torque in the region where you accelerate to move more mass. Unless you want to rev the Rocket more, you need to look into how to get more torque accross a wide range of the power band.

With a few simple modifications, you can get more torque throughout the power band, and not have to give up anything. Freeing up the intake and exhaust can make the engine more efficient, and produce more torque where you want it. Just do not reduce velocity, or screw up pulse tuning, in the intake and exhaust systems.

Yes a few modifications as Wayne stated and you can feel the difference as she eats up sport bikes.



no matter what you do with the muffler cans you won't notice much untill you remove the small exhaust manifold. Its a major choke point.

Oh that red helmet you see in the far lane getting his arse handed to him is a ZX-14

dispite popular opinion the Avon Cobra hooks up great no wet box no burn out to heat it up.

I will install one of those next spring

Had my Roadster tuned a couple of weeks ago. She shows 135.1RWHP and 147.96 lbs of Torque.
I have the triple k&n's with the tors also. I have my bearclaw severely modified into a bearclaw fingernail clipping.lol As in, they're exposed. My run was done on a bad air day and 101 degrees. My Tuner was r3tripper. I've just installed the taller version of the RU2780's. The new 3780's are 1 inch taller. As soon as my Staintune X-over arrives, I'll get her retuned. Did you move any of the timing, like wayne did on Matty's bike? That is the base tune I used.
I expect to get more ddwith my new mods.
Remember, on all bikes, advertized hp and torque is at the crank, not rear wheel. Big difference.
With that said, my bike feels totally different already from stock.
Good luck

Frank, I got the same settings as you have. no bearclaw at all though.
are you going to buy the staintunes along with the cat-remover as well?

Timing is the same on all gears, secs open 100%. if timing is moved, I don't know.

yeah, company numbers are at the crank, when they are the highest of course!

just read a Swedish bike magazine where they compared a Roadster to a Rocket classic. same HP on the rear wheel when they dynoed them both. they could't squeeze out anything extra. Don't know if I should trust Triumph after that.
more HP at the crank, but they got lost on the way?

oh well. supercharger next year