the ecu and connector showed no sign of corrosion.
the sealing oring had rolled over in one spot but the connector was snapped in.
i was given several clues
changed computers and it worked for a while
pushed on the ecu connector and that worked one time.
i did a lot of wiggle tests with out success
i was working on a cool morning no start problem when the no start problem hit crank sensor bad connector problem. (ecu would not fire coils)
i am back to the cool morning problem
i am thinking either bad gas e10 or fuel pressure problem
i know it will flow enough fuel volume but maybe weak in morning if i hook my durango up to the bike i think the extra voltage running would led the bike start.
starting fluid will make it come alive and run good the rest of the day.
i have done the stepper motor/ tps adjust and balanced the throttles.
idle set at 850 but now when slowing down pull clutch it will drop to around 650/700 then will slowly raise to 850.
Mine acted like that I set the TPS primary and secondary and I don't know why I adjusted the stepper motor adjustment a little and the idle went up and down and I think it stalled a couple times. I just moved it back to where I thought it was and rechecked the TPS and adjusted, I found putting what's it, a 4mm Phillips screw holding the TPS kept moving while tightening. I replaced with a hex head SS bolt, and I got this tool from harbor freight, might be able to find somewhere else. Got the setting spot on. Plus a lot easier. And it was back to normal idle and no stall. I think I originally made the stepper adjustment closer, turned out counter clockwise like 1 flat and got the what's it a 3mm clearance, but I didn't put the primaries tp's all the way down like you have to to adjust it, you have to have the in my case air filter plastic box off, don't like doing that, try not to.
Or this looks better, won't need to buy bits, and on Amazon, Free shipping with prime.
KAIFNT K402 Screwdriver Bit Set with Mini Ratchet Wrench, 1/4-Inch Drive, 34-Piece
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RN1VL18/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_W3RC8AFNNSD0H808HHGD
Actually this has the thumb drive it helps.
BOLWHAO 90 degree Right Angle 1/4-Inch L-shaped Socket Wrench Mini Wrench Screwdriver Bit and Socket tool 2 pieces
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L7VYYLT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_TV51382VW9GJRD4R04HM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And this set of bits.
If you don't have this set, I thought it was worth it's weight in gold.
LEXIVON Master HEX Bit Socket Set, Premium S2 Alloy Steel | Complete 32-Piece, SAE and Metric Set | Enhanced Storage Case (LX-144)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MDLCLML/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_CFWQJZKM2QBQNJV3WKJ3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And this should have the right bolt, I think 4mm, plus a lot more, I thought it was a good deal, SS I forget if I cut the length.
HVAZI 135pcs Metric M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 304 Stainless Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Assortment Kit
HVAZI 135pcs Metric M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 304 Stainless Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Assortment Kit: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
It's just weird when you wiggle the ECU connection it worked fine??? You sure there's no rust/corrosion between the wires to the connector block on the outside, undo the clips on both sides and look at them, that's what gets wet, the inside of the connection to ECU is sealed pretty well. Make sure the wires don't pull off very easy, like if the wires broken but the insulation is holding it on the connector block, I would gum that part up with some dielectric grease after making sure clean and tight, no problems.
Can't wait till your on the road again brother, GL