Ignition Switch Relocation

Mitchcpc

Supercharged
Joined
Jul 1, 2007
Messages
260
HHHMMM. Sounds easy.

I give it about a 5 out of 10 for tools needed, and a 6 out of 10 longnecks in difficulity. The more longnecks, the easier it gets.

The first two ingredients are the instructions and the relocation kit. You could probably get away with splicing wires and using the existing bracket, but I just got me the RIVCO relocation kit.





So lets get started.

First, remove the cover below by removing the screw in the center.




This is what you have now.



Look under the ignition switch. See those two silver dots to the right and left? Those are what is left after the theft proof bolt heads break off during installation. I pity the rider who needs to take the ignition switch out in a hurry. What I did was drill them out. I tried the dremel grinder but could not get in there good enough. Sawz-All was to big. So I drilled a small pilot hole, then a large hole. It was kinda of like drilling out a rivit.



Here is after removal.




Next, remove bearclaw & left side steering neck cover, lift your tank and find the connection. Somebody recently asked what that little metal rod is clipped to the side of the frame under the tank. These pictures explain that (It holds up the tank) as well as shows the large connector that you have to disconnect. Disconnect and remove the ignition switch.




As yu can see, not a lot of grease in the connector from the factory. I believe in lots of dialectric grease on motorcyle electrical connections.



Now, remove the existing left side panel. I had previously installed a 12V outlet in mine.



Here is what is behind it after you take the bracket off. Your wires may look a bit different because the white connections are to my GiPro.



Now, run the cable extender down on the right side of the air snorkel. I found it much easier to do this by disconnecting the snorkel and moving it aside. The instructions tell you to remove your tank rear bolt and balance the tank on some towels sitting on the battery while you do this. No thanks. Take the right side panel off and route the connector down to the right side in front of the air box.



Next, install the new bracket on the ignition switch, enlarge the hole in the side panel as the instructions say, and postiion the assembly in place. It will take some bending and trial and error of the bracket and mounting ears to get the right angle. TIP** there are a couple of tits on the back of the plastic side panel, grind these down or they just get in the way. It's ok, really.



See the tits below? Grind them off. You see why.




Once you have the switch , bracket, and cover fitted, make the connection under the tank and on the right side in front of the air box. Apply liberal amounts of dialectric grease. Cheap insurance.











Now, repair any wires you ground, cut, or stipped by accident.

Secure the switch and side panel firmly. Reconnect the air snorkel. Replace the right side cover. Lower and secure the tank and bearclaw, replace the original front switch cover using the provided blank to cover the old switch hole.




Have another long neck, admire your work, turn the key and hope it works. Mine does.
 
..nice documentation Mitch..where'd ya put the 12V outlet????....and have ya put in a headlight relay????...thanks for the post.....
 
That is a good post. However, if you had removed the snorkel completely and installed triple K&N filters, or something similar, then this job would be much simpler.

OK, OK. I get it. Should have done that first.
 
..nice documentation Mitch..where'd ya put the 12V outlet????....and have ya put in a headlight relay????...thanks for the post.....

I put a 12V outlet on the right side of the steering column. Headlight relay is next.
 
Good thread. Pictures really do make things a lot more understandable.

Don't delay on the headlight relays. I did and it cost me an ignition switch.