Ignition/Starting issue??
Shooting blind, so may be of little use. If it isn't in your handlebar switch contacts, it may be the gear position sensor or clutch sensor as well. I have a 2013, so the sensors may be a bit different, but I have to have the clutch in, kickstand up in order to start. When I am in neutral, I have had to rock the bike on occasion as well, which made me think one of my sensors among those three may not be working quite right.
 
If you have all the potential electrical gremlins sorted out, consider this mechanical issue for a minute....

In the automotive and heavy equipment world I have come across the condition you have described and the short term fix being to rock the engine. Often the problem is a flat spot on the flywheel teeth or wear on the starter drive gear due to spinning the starter with the engine running causing the problem. The starter solenoid gets activated which is the click you hear. As the solenoid pulls in the contacts, it throws out the starter drive gear at the same time which meshes with the flywheel gear. Once the meshing takes place the solenoid contacts seat allowing current to flow to the starter motor, spinning the engine (No meshing, no current flow to starter, just a click). The problem is that the starter drive cannot mesh at all times with the flywheel due to gear damage. Slightly rocking the engine can move the flywheel teeth enough to allow the starter to mesh.

I also have seen this problem caused by a loose flywheel on the crank (Not often) or a starter that isn't shimmed to the block properly.

I know it's a long shot, but it's something to consider or store for future use.
 
Do you mean the Beaver kit? It bypasses so that the load drawn from the duel headlight does not draw down the battery. But I don't get a strain when starting, as I might sometimes get when the battery is cold, or low. I get nothing, just a click. I asked the Triumph shop about that, I even printed out the specs and the comments from previous people stating how and why it works. Of course the knowledgeable service experts from the triumph dealer, who couldn't fix the problem just said: "well, you cant believe what you read on the internet" because it was not a factory authorized fix most likely.
But I'll try it, I almost ordered it a while back. Hate to keep throwing stuff at the wall, if it won't work.
 
Fingers said:
Start by cleaning the contacts in the switch,then check battery terminals and clean them on both ends.Also the contacts in the starter could need attention.
Click to expand...
I did all that, when the new started was installed the shop thought it might be the contacts in the starter, but when I went to pick it up, it happened right in the driveway of the shop!
 
I never thought of that! Totaling the bike might do it! Hopefully I can find a less total solution!
 
Way to go, Mate! I am going to try to locate that exact connector and see if it won't sort out the problem. Many thanks! i'll let you know. Still snow here, its a nice 5f degrees, but I want to get this sorted.
 
@The Fast Chef have you sorted the issue yet? If not, I have found another annoying problem on mine; the kickstand switch. The small piston that is activated when the stand goes down and kills the engine was sticking inside and also has worn off by several mm. I bought the replacement switch and kickstand (mine was wobbling in it keeper). When the bike is cold, the piston does not want to back out and allow the bike to start in gear, or if I start it is neutral then drop into first, it would kill the bike. Swapping the switch has fixed that.
 
@Boog,If you still have the old side Stan’s switch you can solder the two outside wires together and eliminate it.
 
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