Ignition on/off switch removal for disconnecting fuel line

I had success in getting the fuel connector off WITHOUT breaking anything..... wahooo
I did release the pressure in the tank by removing the gas cap. Some pressure, but don't think it helped with my issue. Still
couldn't get it off. Next step was to remove the fuel pump fuse and START to relieve the pressure in fuel line/rail. Bike would not start, but cranked.
Not sure why it wouldn't start. As I'm writing this I realize I had the side stand down. Anyway, tried pulling off again and it popped off with some effort. No harm no foul. Surprised didn't get much fuel leaking out of line. Hmm
Anyway, tank is off after wrestling with electrical connector. So far, NOTHING has been easy.

I next moved onto replacing the air filter which went OK with some removing of tubing and lots of screws. Not an easy job, but done.

Next is replacing the spark plugs which, on inspection, looks like a MAJOR job because of no access to the plugs without removing EVERYTHING under the tank
on right side. This would include all brake lines and ignition coils, etc, etc, etc. Even though the bike has 24K miles, I'm thinking it doesn't need it that badly. Haven't decided if I want to tackle this. I'm thinking I'd have to buy special plug wrenches, etc. Have not found any YouTube videos showing how to replace
the plugs. Am I making too much of this? Has anybody done this (of course, other than dealer)?

I need somebody to tell me it's not as bad as it looks.....

Thanks
 
Last edited:
You just remove the coils- not the brake stuff for the spark plugs. As @Sparky59 mentioned, I've done all this and have included links in my post above that you might find useful 🤷🏼‍♂️ in conjunction with the manual. I didn't repeat information given there, but tips and any errors I came across.

You're due for your 20k service which is quite involved, but can be DIY if you're determined- otherwise get your credit card out for Triumph (or take out a loan) and just let them do the plugs, fuel filter, while they're in there adjusting valves, setting timing, draining radiator and clutch fluids, etc.

I posted a keyword searchable version of the manual in Resources (menu bar top of the page) and here are those links, again....

10k mile service - DIY (also, Spark Plugs Not Tight & Wire Boots Not Pushed On!)

A look at the 2.5 Innards - DIY 20K mile service, including valve clearance check and shim replacement
 
Thanks Journeyman, I did take a look at your docs on the DIY and very much appreciate your time and effort in doing that.
I had ordered 3 Iridium plugs and then just discovered it takes 6. Ordered the additional 3 along with the pivot 14mm socket
you recommended. I'll finish putting the left side back together before going after the right side and plugs. I can only take
a moderate amount of frustration at a time. No hurry in getting this done with the winter nights getting longer this weekend.

I didn't look before picking up the Iridium plugs (longevity), but thinking I don't want to do this again. I take it the Iridiumes make this
motor happy?
 
Thanks Journeyman, I did take a look at your docs on the DIY and very much appreciate your time and effort in doing that.
I had ordered 3 Iridium plugs and then just discovered it takes 6. Ordered the additional 3 along with the pivot 14mm socket
you recommended. I'll finish putting the left side back together before going after the right side and plugs. I can only take
a moderate amount of frustration at a time. No hurry in getting this done with the winter nights getting longer this weekend.

I didn't look before picking up the Iridium plugs (longevity), but thinking I don't want to do this again. I take it the Iridiumes make this
motor happy?
I've just gone with the regular recommended plugs, but know there was a discussion on it here somewhere.

Yeah, compared to the 2.3s working on these newer bikes can be frustration inducing :). You'll get through it though, I'm sure.
 
Back
Top