Ignition on/off switch removal for disconnecting fuel line

needforspeed150

.020 Over
Joined
Mar 12, 2021
Messages
17
Location
Kansas City area. (Merriam, Kansas)
Ride
2021 Rocket 3 gt, 2006 HD V-rod, 2009 HD Fatbob, +
I have read the article here that explains how to take the tank off. All in all so far it is fine. It mentions that you have to remove the ignition on /off switch which I think is US models only to get to the fuel line connector. I can not see where to remove this item. Do I have to take off the air cleaner runners ? I do not see any screws/bolts to remove. This is a 2001 GT. Any help will be appreciated.
Ben R
 
Ben, probably a 2021 GT- we knew what you meant.

Start with this screw. You'll unplug the switch and there's a small hose going to it too- don't remember the exact details, but it'll all make sense with that screw removed....



A wrench like this one that takes bits comes in handy for this and many other tasks.


Here's another tank removal thread you may find useful....

10k mile service - DIY (also, Spark Plugs Not Tight & Wire Boots Not Pushed On!)

Sharing my experience here changing the air and fuel filter and inspecting the spark plugs. Refer to the manual for the basics, but here are things that may help, along with some very surprising discoveries I made... 1) Removing the tank There are three things to disconnect besides the bolt...
www.r3owners.net
 
I have been working on this with the limited amount of time that I have had. What should be a simple task is taking the wiring clip loose from the bottom of the gas tank. I have plenty of room and I have pushed on the clip shown. I am pulling towards the front of the tank as the back half of the clip is in a bracket. I have not been able to get it to move. I am thinking the rubber gasket that waterproofs the clip is causing to much drag. Am I missing something here or anyone have a trick to getting it loose. Thanks for the help.
Ben
 




This is the tab- push down on the tab (toward the guts of the connection). Sounds like that is what you're doing, but maybe this photo will help.

Start lifting the tank and in the middle underneath is an electrical connection. Lift enough to get to the connection and with your third hand push down on this little tab to release the connection between the two halves of the plug. If you haven't dropped the tank you'll be happy and looking at...

You said... "the back half of the clip is in a bracket...." I don't think so. I believe that you're working on another connection. After disconnecting the vacuum hoses and fuel line and attempting to lift the tank this wire bundle is all that prevents you from removing the tank.

The fuel line connection, on the other hand, does have one side fixed. Which of these in the photo below are you trying to remove? Also, was my advice on removing the ignition switch of any help?



10k mile service - DIY (also, Spark Plugs Not Tight & Wire Boots Not Pushed On!)

Sharing my experience here changing the air and fuel filter and inspecting the spark plugs. Refer to the manual for the basics, but here are things that may help, along with some very surprising discoveries I made... 1) Removing the tank There are three things to disconnect besides the bolt...
www.r3owners.net
 

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Thanks for the pics Journeyman. I'm about to tackle this job soon and thinking I'll buy my buddy a beer to hold
the tank while I wrestle with the connectors.... ;-(

I'm removing the tank to replace the air filter and plug change. While I'm there, is there anything else I should do?
The bike (2022 GT) has 23K on it now.

Larry
 
2022 Rocket GT -
I now have the time and the weather has turned winter the last couple days. I'm now tackling removing the fuel tank to replace the spark plugs and air filter.
I'm down to unplugging the fuel connector and being very careful to NOT break this plastic connection. I've lifted the tank to have access, slid the
connector lock tab as described, but the connection will NOT budge. I've cursed at it, rotated back and forth, rocking while pulling out with no luck.
I know to stop as I'm getting frustrated. I viewed a YouTube video on removing the tank, and the guy said he broke the connector first time trying.
Anybody have a suggestion? Argh, so close
Also, I've run the tank down to 1 - 1.5 gal? When I do get that connection released, will all this gas run out all over the floor? Or, is there a check valve to
prevent this.

Much appreciate you ideas,
Larry
 
there is a valve to stop the gas from leaking out, but there will be a bit of a spill from what what in the hose.

make sure you remove the gas pump fuse and start it a couple of times to depressurize the tank; makes it a lot easier to pull the connector loose. but the first time you take it off is always the hardest. it's either looser thereafter, or may just seem easier b/c you come to know the feel of it
 
Ah....depressurizing the hose. Would not have ever thought of that. I guess just opening gas cap wouldn't be enough. I think I'll try
that first before starting. Scary to think about starting with the tank propped up on boards.
Now that I think about it, I do hear hissing from the gas cap for quit some time after riding. There must be a lot of pressure. Never
heard that from the BMW.

Thanks....
I'll let you know how that goes.

Larry
 
It's much more pressure than might build up in the tank. The fuel pump pressurizes the fuel line. If you didn't take the steps described above you'd get a good spray of fuel upon release and the pressure would make getting that connection free much harder.

Also, you're going to want one of these, unless you have unusually long, slender and strong fingers....

The connection is plastic- be careful! You would not be the first to break it.
Make sure you slide back the "catch" and then are squeezing just the buttons on each side. It can be hard to tell.
Once properly squeezed (but not too hard!) continue and lift up on the fuel connector.
You might want to stick a rag under there to catch the little bit of fuel that will still be there.

I'm still trying to find a metal connector to replace that POS.

​

10k mile service - DIY (also, Spark Plugs Not Tight & Wire Boots Not Pushed On!)​


A look at the 2.5 Innards - DIY 20K mile service, including valve clearance check and shim replacement
 
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