Ignition/fuse block

OK - red going out with clutch pulled, but coming back on when released says ignition circuit is NOT active
The Ignition Circuit indeed goes through Fuse 5

Does headlight come on when you hold the clutch in? (this is important piece of data for me) - with red light coming back on when you release clutch says light will not remain on, but does it come on at least when pulled.
If it does NOT check Fuse #2

If Fuse #2 is good, then check the main key-switch connector

You should really check the voltage at the Fuses:
Keep the meter black probe on the battery negative;
Touch the red probe to the metal tips on top of the fuses
a) Fuse #2 - (main power fuse)
b) Fuse #5 (Ignition Circuit)
c) Fuse #9 (headlight circuit)

Check BOTH sides of the fuse i.e. each of the metal tabs on each fuse (again, keep the black probe on the battery negative & just touch each tab in turn)

For a) does not matter if on or off
For b) & c) check while clutch lever is pulled (use a tie wrap around the lever/grip if necessary so you can do test)

 
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Really appreciate the help, Ken. Headlight does not come on. I changed fuses 2, 5, and 6, also pulled the battery fuses and tried a couple 20a fuses in their place. Both of my testers are in NY, unfortunately, I will have to go out and buy another one tomorrow.

Edit: changed 9 too now, no luck
 
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Does horn or turn signals or brake light (no need to test all, just pick one of them) work while you are holding the clutch lever?

Since neither Headlights nor ignition comes on, it says that the main power in (out of fuse 2) is not there - the input power to those two circuits is common to both of those power switches;
the red light going out, says the 'drive' to the power switches is 'good' when the clutch is being pulled; but there is no power OUT of those two switches
It looks like the main power IN to those two is missing - checking the horn/turns/brake circuit becomes live will validate that power switch is enabled and confirm the theory of the missing Fuse 2 power supplying the other two.

Check the main key-switch connector and particularly inspect pin 1 (it's white/blue wire on main harness side and red on the keyless side) - that is the input power that comes from Fuse 2 - some OEM bikes (i.e. with std key-switch) have failed at this main key-switch connector due to what I suspect is a poor fitting terminal/crimp from the factory - if there is sign of burning there that would be the problem.
If that all looks good, then that takes us back to Fuse 2 again.

This image shows the main harness key-switch connector with the burnt terminal 1




One more thing - check the smaller gauge ground wire that comes off the main negative cable at the battery - there is a single-terminal connector about 9" down that cable - this is another common fail point on the Touring particularly.
 
Horn works
Note to self: air horn in closed metal building is quite loud, wife called me a jerk, and dog ran for the woods. Horn is aftermarket, so checked brake light, that works too.
Heading into town to buy a voltage tester in a bit.

Edit: in the interest of being thorough, I checked turn signals, they DO NOT work
 
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Tripps said:
Horn works
I checked turn signals, they DO NOT work
Click to expand...

Sorry about that, miscue from me - Turns on a Touring do not come from same circuit as horn/brake (which they do on the other models)

But horn working confirms the control circuit and that power switch are functioning and that problem is those other two power switches are not - the common factor being the input power
Take a look at that connector before you go buy a meter
 

Mine had this problem (burned connector pin). Previous owner. But I discovered it while trying to find another problem. I have a replacement connector, but have not got around to replacing it - as in: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
 

Forgive my ignorance, what do you mean by power switches? The connectors?
 
Both ground wire connector and plug to ignition, if I have the right ones, look great, ground wire connector looks like it was packed with grease yesterday. And I wiggled and pulled, red wire into connector feels rock solid.
 
OK, then you need meter at this point to check voltage at fuse 2 and also at that same terminal (as per the one that is shown as the burned one - the one with the white/blue wire

* Power switches - my solid-state switches inside the box - there are three, one each for headlights, ignition and horn/brake circuits.
The input power to those first two is common - off fuse 2 - so that is the suspect circuit
 
Tripps said:
Both ground wire connector and plug to ignition, if I have the right ones, look great, ground wire connector looks like it was packed with grease yesterday. And I wiggled and pulled, red wire into connector feels rock solid.
Click to expand...
Great dexterity movement while taking pictures
 
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