How to remove the ignition switch

[buschbob]

The security bolts are quite soft so you can take a thin flat head screwdriver and tap a small slot in the bolt. Then you can unscrew them easily.

As idk mentioned, if you do not fit a headlight relay kit (a.k.a. the Eastern Beaver kit), you will be doing this again sometime in the future. http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/Triumph/triumph.html

That sounds like an easier option then using a dremel, thanks. Would this "do" the same a the beaver kit? : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/360461543240?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

 

[buschbob]

All you need to do is re-solder the wires that have dried - and then broken - solder joints. It is very easy to do once the switch is apart. Another alternative is a remote keyless ignition. Do you have the Eastern Beaver kit or someting similar? Without it you will have the same problem again.

Thanks, I like the option of repair, safes substantial $$$$ - so..... what I am hearing is that too much voltage is going through the switch, causing the solder joints to dry, unless a relay is used for the headlights? sounds like a design problem (like these stupid bolts). Also like the idea of a remote keyless ignition, where can I get one of those to suit the rocket?

 

[tdragger]

That sounds like an easier option then using a dremel, thanks. Would this "do" the same a the beaver kit? : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/360461543240?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

Absolutely not. The premise behind this kit is that it will shut off the headlights until you start the bike and actively "switch" the lights on. That's not the problem that burns up the ignition switch. The add also falsely states that the Rocket has "always on" headlights. This simply is not true. When you hit the starter button, a relay diverts power from the headlights to the starter and your headlights actually go out. Only the little parking lights remain on but they are a low draw anyway.

The culprit is that full amperage of the headlight circuits are routed through the ignition switch while you are on the bike. The EB kit is a true bypass of this circuit. It only uses the headlight circuit from the ignition switch to activate 2 new relays that handle the full load directly from the battery.

You can further protect your ignition switch by also installing a starter relay bypass. This will completely divert all of the high amperage draws away from the ignition switch. I still need to do this mod myself (or idk's keyless mod).

 

[buschbob]

Here is a thread on how to install a keyless ignition.

What a great idea and write up, thanks. I'll definitely get one of those going

 

[buschbob]

Absolutely not. The premise behind this kit is that it will shut off the headlights until you start the bike and actively "switch" the lights on. That's not the problem that burns up the ignition switch. The add also falsely states that the Rocket has "always on" headlights. This simply is not true. When you hit the starter button, a relay diverts power from the headlights to the starter and your headlights actually go out. Only the little parking lights remain on but they are a low draw anyway.

The culprit is that full amperage of the headlight circuits are routed through the ignition switch while you are on the bike. The EB kit is a true bypass of this circuit. It only uses the headlight circuit from the ignition switch to activate 2 new relays that handle the full load directly from the battery.

You can further protect your ignition switch by also installing a starter relay bypass. This will completely divert all of the high amperage draws away from the ignition switch. I still need to do this mod myself (or idk's keyless mod).

Thanks, all makes a lot of sense

 

[TurboFan]

I wonder how many have used this thread in the past 3 years. I went to change the switch today and couldn't remember if it can be done without pulling off he upper triple clamp. This thread reviewed the whole process and was a lot more helpful than the service manual. I did pull the upper clamp, cut a small groove with the Dremel, which heated the screw and made it come out easy as could be. Miracle of miracles, I had some some stainless button head screws 6 mm x 1.0 and 20 mm long, so I could bolt it all back together. Maybe even get my wifes car put away by tomorrow night! Thanks everyone for this thread.