...I'd be kind enough to let you set a new one up on my bike (I wouldn't charge you anything of course) to be tested in Aussie conditions...you know...global reliability testing etc etc :D:thumbsup:
 
Here is a little video we did a while back.

We now have a smaller hex locking nut to make adjustment easier. We found a Clutch Master cylinder for 1 inch bars on eBay. It works good but a bit heavy. An alternative is the VTX1800 master cylinder. Note you can get into the clutch without taking the whole cover off now as well. I have shafts for early and late clutches, most people have changed these out to the late pressure plate but we have both.
Here is a little dyno power run.
 
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Right around $200.00, they gave me a verbal estimate of "around 16 hours" labor and when I inquired about a R3 in their shop yesterday I got the impression they have never done the job before. My concern is dealer pile on. my 20k tune was a $600.00 quote and I ended up getting pant's for $1700.00 after they got done finding stuff to fix. I can't imagine how much 'stuff' they're gonna find in my bike when they crack it open to do the update.
 
Right around $200.00, they gave me a verbal estimate of "around 16 hours" labor and when I inquired about a R3 in their shop yesterday I got the impression they have never done the job before. My concern is dealer pile on. my 20k tune was a $600.00 quote and I ended up getting pant's for $1700.00 after they got done finding stuff to fix. I can't imagine how much 'stuff' they're gonna find in my bike when they crack it open to do the update.
I do know Triumph Corporate paid/gave the dealers 16 hours to do the update kit install which you would have to be very good and done a bunch to hit that time. I think 20 or 24 is more accurate so nothing gets rushed. Of course back then they did not charge for the kit components because it was a warranty so the kit was supplied. so if you got the cam clearance check or had to have shims installed for 1700 and the 200 for the kit I would say you got a real fair price on the whole job.
 
The kit sits in a box in my basement waiting, the $1700. was the 20k, valves were in spec but a fork seal leaked fluid on brake pads fork seals and pads, i also had the EB bypass installed for $150. If they will do the job for 1700. I agree with you from all iv'e read, i'll take it and be happy.
 
Here is a little video we did a while back.

We now have a smaller hex locking nut to make adjustment easier. We found a Clutch Master cylinder for 1 inch bars on eBay. It works good but a bit heavy. An alternative is the VTX1800 master cylinder. Note you can get into the clutch without taking the whole cover off now as well. I have shafts for early and late clutches, most people have changed these out to the late pressure plate but we have both.
Here is a little dyno power run.
I am really giving serious thought to this Richard because of the larger roller bearing on the blower drive unit. I do not have problems with the manual release clutch but also see the advantage of being able to access the clutch without draining the oils and pulling the complete cover. I really like the pulley cover in the lower video but I am not sure if it will fit mine because I have a 95 mm pulley on my blower. I can probably drop to a 90 mm and not exceed the blower max rpm and just bleed excess boost off with a BLV. So my question is do you think there is enough clearance in the cover for a 95 mm pulley on the blower?
 
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