HORSEPOWER

[micromike1]

Now don't go inflating the problem. The few that have had trouble I have helped them with the problem. If I missed any one on email, then they should have called me and I would have sorted them. It was generally that the 12 mm thread put in the end of the crank wasn't cut true. The bolt would break eventually and take the end of the crank out. While this is repairable to a much stronger and more accurate condition obviously we would rather it not happen. Hence my kits having jigs to stop this happening. We beefed up the bearing as well just because we had the opportunity. I have A LOT of supercharged bikes out across the world, many with huge miles on with no issues.
Now regarding this bike for sale, if someone gives me the guys full name I will look up what we have done for him. If we repaired it it will be a good job.

 

[IMFASTTOO]

Now don't go inflating the problem. The few that have had trouble I have helped them with the problem. If I missed any one on email, then they should have called me and I would have sorted them. It was generally that the 12 mm thread put in the end of the crank wasn't cut true. The bolt would break eventually and take the end of the crank out. While this is repairable to a much stronger and more accurate condition obviously we would rather it not happen. Hence my kits having jigs to stop this happening. We beefed up the bearing as well just because we had the opportunity. I have A LOT of supercharged bikes out across the world, many with huge miles on with no issues.
Now regarding this bike for sale, if someone gives me the guys full name I will look up what we have done for him. If we repaired it it will be a good job.

OOPS sorry RICHARD didnt mean it that way I was just trying to identify the individual

 

[RICHARD ALBANS]

OOPS sorry RICHARD didnt mean it that way I was just trying to identify the individual

Feel the love

 

[ROCKETHEAD]

Unanswered emails and calls... at the time mine went there were 5 others with similar problems. The drive pulley did not mate up with crank, the hole was drilled and tapped at a machine shop.

 

[RICHARD ALBANS]

Unanswered emails and calls... at the time mine went there were 5 others with similar problems. The drive pulley did not mate up with crank, the hole was drilled and tapped at a machine shop.

you have a pm.

 

[micromike1]

I got a couple of replys through ebay,I asked about Tuneboy and PCV but he never answered,he quoted 320bhp to begin with and I said it looked like a stage 1 kit that puts out 240+.....he said it was a typing error and changed the ad to 280bhp,I asked if he had a dyno printout to back up his claims and he said TTS had them,I also asked if he had a receipt for the new crank.....he said TTS had that aswell.....as they fitted it under warranty?..........I asked what went wrong with it and that I knew of someone who had his crank break after not many miles (this is Les aka Trirocket3 as already said by Richard) ...he said the crank broke after only 500 miles,I asked how many miles had he done on it since having it fitted and he said only 1500.
After all said and done it might be a bonifide bike but without any paperwork to back it up I personally wouldn't buy it

HI picked up the bike today showroom condition it was advertised and it surely was the guy who sold the bike was one of the nicest guys to talk to and I came away with a different picture than the one I had formed from reading the advert.
The guy had only had the bike less than year having brought it of someone he knew as a customer at his previouse job as a mechanic at a Triumph dealers and had carried out some warranty work on the gearbox so he knew the bike very well .
Bike rode nice but winding on the power had the rear wheel hopping I assume from the poor quality shocks lack of damping
Winding on power gently the bike ran nice with no hesation but winding on rapidly there is a misfire in any gear around 3500 revs wiil check the obvious loose connection etc
First Impression I have a qenuine bike with a known history time will tell though
micromike

 

[warp9.9]

Be careful because if it has a the blower on it the miss your felling could actually be a detonation which can be hazardous to the engine. A note about broken crankshafts which I have always worried about and have been following them to hopefully learn something and thus keep from having one myself. Richard is right about drilling the crank off center or kattywhompus, this can definitely add to the chances of breaking the bolt or the nose of the crankshaft. Other reasons in my opinion that can cause this includes not drilling it deep enough and thus when applying the proper torque to the bolt you can actually attempt to pull the nose of the crank off the shaft, ( one must take into consideration the nose length of the tap dril and the amount of tapered threads a tap has on it to insure he drills it deep enough for complete threads) other things like detonation can be unhealthy to the nose and like Les found out the rod journal. On other thing people need to realize is a combination of things can happen like slight detonation or heavy engine breaking can make the OEM tensioner release losing timing. When this happens Mr valve meats Mrs. Piston causing a abrupt stopping or hammering affect of the crank shaft and well the planetary power of the blower drive which is almost a 10:1 ratio which makes it want to keep spinning. This of course is not good for the weak link of the crank which is the nose. all heck then brake loose and well its just costly. A Rocket owner I know had a blower bike that had a repaired crankshaft done by Richard which had such a good job of repair that the nose of the crankshaft did not fail. His tensioner did ( because it did not have a manual one or the Warp Aerospace modified OEM model) and it jumped timing. This resulted in the need of a new head, pistons, and liners because the valves broke off and nothing rotating fared out to well clearance wise when the piston came up and the valves were standing on the edge.
Remember this is just my own opinions and I have only been a tool maker since 1976, so like I say I have a couple years experience in the metal trades

 

[chandelierman]

HI picked up the bike today showroom condition it was advertised and it surely was the guy who sold the bike was one of the nicest guys to talk to and I came away with a different picture than the one I had formed from reading the advert.
The guy had only had the bike less than year having brought it of someone he knew as a customer at his previouse job as a mechanic at a Triumph dealers and had carried out some warranty work on the gearbox so he knew the bike very well .
Bike rode nice but winding on the power had the rear wheel hopping I assume from the poor quality shocks lack of damping
Winding on power gently the bike ran nice with no hesation but winding on rapidly there is a misfire in any gear around 3500 revs wiil check the obvious loose connection etc
First Impression I have a qenuine bike with a known history time will tell though
micromike

From the way that he was talking I'd assumed that he had had the charger fitted himself.....he never said he had bought the bike with it already fitted........Good luck with it :0)

 

[micromike1]

Be careful because if it has a the blower on it the miss your felling could actually be a detonation which can be hazardous to the engine. A note about broken crankshafts which I have always worried about and have been following them to hopefully learn something and thus keep from having one myself. Richard is right about drilling the crank off center or kattywhompus, this can definitely add to the chances of breaking the bolt or the nose of the crankshaft. Other reasons in my opinion that can cause this includes not drilling it deep enough and thus when applying the proper torque to the bolt you can actually attempt to pull the nose of the crank off the shaft, ( one must take into consideration the nose length of the tap dril and the amount of tapered threads a tap has on it to insure he drills it deep enough for complete threads) other things like detonation can be unhealthy to the nose and like Les found out the rod journal. On other thing people need to realize is a combination of things can happen like slight detonation or heavy engine breaking can make the OEM tensioner release losing timing. When this happens Mr valve meats Mrs. Piston causing a abrupt stopping or hammering affect of the crank shaft and well the planetary power of the blower drive which is almost a 10:1 ratio which makes it want to keep spinning. This of course is not good for the weak link of the crank which is the nose. all heck then brake loose and well its just costly. A Rocket owner I know had a blower bike that had a repaired crankshaft done by Richard which had such a good job of repair that the nose of the crankshaft did not fail. His tensioner did ( because it did not have a manual one or the Warp Aerospace modified OEM model) and it jumped timing. This resulted in the need of a new head, pistons, and liners because the valves broke off and nothing rotating fared out to well clearance wise when the piston came up and the valves were standing on the edge.
Remember this is just my own opinions and I have only been a tool maker since 1976, so like I say I have a couple years experience in the metal trades

Hi Thanks for the info will look into the tensioner .
I must admit when I looked into fitting a supercharger a few years ago to my rocket I had reservations of peoples ability to drill and tap a hole into the end of the crankshaft!
I think then it was only 8mm thread but could be wrong
Spent the last 45 years in engineering and last 25 running my own wire and spark erosion and toolmaking business so get to see many broken taps you cannot get the skills anymore


Thanks Micromike

 

[ruzzle]

The OEM hole in the nose is 8 mm for the retaining bolt for the cam drive sprocket. The blower hole is 12 mm.

TTS supply a taper tap AND a bottoming tap to thread the new hole.

And as Warp says, we have all learned about the dreaded Detorats eating pistons and things..............