Heat problems with relocating your ignition


Paul,
I will probably be in your area around 9 - 9:30. Did you want me to bring the tape and meet you before your Dr's visit?
I am buying the M4 nowc because I can, who knows down the road, I don't need the launcher at this time
 

Is there any other links on the site about this issue? If left unattended, what problems would indicate this causing a problem?
 
LMG said:
Is there any other links on the site about this issue? If left unattended, what problems would indicate this causing a problem?
Click to expand...

I don't know, not on this forum, but someone told me extreme heat could cause an issue with the switch failing. Mine got pretty hot waiting in traffic so I wasn't taking any chances. So just wrap it up (the interior part) with heat shielding material and it should be fine. Take note that in the middle part of the switch there seems to be some openings in the housing of the switch that may be vents for cooling so don't cover them up. With the Cool Tape cover the wire and the area where the wire goes into the back of the switch and only the first 1" of the switch that is closest to the motor.
 
Same time? 11:30am. Maybe I willl as long as we go riding on some of your twisties! Hey BonJoe how about you? I'll bring the Cool Tape!
 

OK - the reason I ask is that since moving the ignition I have been experiencing an "electrical problem" where >it< blows the heated grips/aux clocks fuse.

Im going to have a go at locating this tape in the UK and will wrap whatever isnt bolted down in the stuff Will try and take some photos.
 
What amp fuse are you using? I don't think there's an assosiation. The ignition switch just plugs into the old harness via an extension. How long ago did you install the heated grips and the relocation? You may want to start another thread asking for help with your fuse issue. You should still tape up your ignition switch and wire though, it's a great fix and will definitely prolong the life of your ignition switch. The tape should be available in any decent auto parts store. In the store, it should be located where the exhaust tape and header gasket stuff is.
 
The basic keyless function for the Digital Guard Dawg is only $169! The full works with immobilizer and alarm is $399. The only drawback is you would still need the key for the steering lock.

I'm going to get the basic DGD because I like the Scorpio alarm better. Steering lock isn't a huge drawback because I use an OnGuard mastiff (10lb) chain and Boxer disc lock. I figure the only way someone is stealing a Rocket is with a truck so a steering lock doesn't add much to the layer of security beyond the chain and disc lock.
 
Ignition

I appreciate your words of wisdom. I was riding my Rocket III and I have a Rivco kignition kit and I just goot out of the mounatains and my bike died with no power. I found during the cover of darkness a short with my ignition switch. I had to wiggle the wires several times during my 80 plus miles I had to go to the cabin but I made it back. When I got back to Florida I had to take apart the ignition switch and found that a wire that was solder from the factory was shorting out. I resoulder the wire and I ahve not had any more problems. I will try your suggestions.

TX Gator13
 
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