Headlamps???
Does anyone know the part number for the 2015 Rocket 3 Touring turn signal bulbs?
 
Not sure about the Rocket but I would go to a parts store like autozone or O'reillys with the bulb and see what they have to offer. Worked for the Harley and is a much better price.
 
Tommy Boy said:
Does anyone know the part number for the 2015 Rocket 3 Touring turn signal bulbs?
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I believe they are BAU15S - see this post - The BEST MOD ever



Note the difference (below) - the BA15S (which is also known as 1156) has the bayonets at 180 degrees opposite each other, while the BAU15S has them offset.



As I mentioned in the link post, you can easily make either type fit in the other socket, by simply just filing off ONE (only!!) of the bayonet pins
 
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Works out great been doing it for years with the Harley and when the time comes around will do the same with the Rocket.
 
1olbull said:
Your decision shall be one of the USA made top flight JW Speakers or one of the Chinese knock-offs.
Several here have gone with the much cheaper knock-off LEDs and are happy with them.
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I have a head scratching question, I went with the cheaper LED knock offs and they are awesome. However after a week or so of riding at night I suddenly lost the "running lights" (tail light, tag light), everything else still works, headlights, turn signals, brake light. I have checked all fuses visually and with a meter, changed lamps even though they were not burnt out and traced out the wiring none are burned or damaged in any way. I have even pulled the LED headlights and put everything back to stock and went through it all but can add the running lights in the stock headlight were affected also.
I have been reading through the threads and not seen this exact issue, any help is appreciated. I have got to make the LEDs work since it gets dark to **** early now.

Slyanide
 
Turns, Brake are on Fuse 4; Headlights are on Fuse 9 - neither of these circuits has any influence on the running lights
The Tail/license plate lamps actually have two fuses in play - Fuse #8 and Fuse #10.
Turn your key-switch anti-clockwise past the 'lock' position to the Park Position - does tail light come on?
If it does, fuse 8 is the problem.
If it does not, then more likely fuse 10 is the problem.

The best way to check is to test the voltage actually at the fuses:
Set your voltmeter to read DC Volts and put the black probe on the battery negative;
Turn on key to normal 'run' position and touch the red probe, in turn, to the small exposed metal tabs on the tops of Fuses 8 & 10; (there is no need to remove the fuses)
you should see 12V at all 4 tabs (each side of fuses 8 & 10)
Whichever tab is missing voltage will tell you where the problem is.

*If the voltages all read good, then ensure that you have not rubbed through the harness to the tail light, under the fender, with the tire.*
I have even pulled the LED headlights and put everything back to stock and went through it all but can add the running lights in the stock headlight were affected also.
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* edit - missed this part so ignore that last comment - since front is also affected almost certainly one of the fuses.
 
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You were correct Sir fuse number 10 was the culprit, I made sure everything worked in stock configuration and it did. I then reinstalled the LED headlamps and everything worked properly, I did buy a 5 pack of the 5 amp fuses and put them in my pack in case it does it again. If it does what would be next to try, load imbalance resistor or something similar.
 
Do you have a spec sheet (or even just a link) to the headlamps you purchased?
Need to know how much current those 'running lights' in the new headlamps draw.
You might be marginal at 5A, especially if they are some type of Halo
If it does it again, go to a bigger fuse* - 7.5 or 10A (you should also increase Fuse 8 at same time)
Be sure that your actual headlight is not operating off the Yellow wire, but off the original wires to the H4 connector.

* If you don't have a spec and want to know how much current those lamps (the running light component of the headlight) are drawing then
Remove Fuse 10
Set Meter to read DC Current on 10A (or 20A - whatever your meter has)
Connect the two probes to the Fuse 10 Holder terminals - one to each side.
Read current.
Allow a minimum 50% margin to what you read to find what fuse size you need; round up to the next common Fuse size.
Be careful not to connect your meter, while set in Current Scale, across a voltage source - it will blow the fuse in the meter for the current reading.
 
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They are direct replacements plugged into the Original H4 connector, I will dig up the spec sheet and check it. The fuse pack I bought has the 7.5 and 10 amp fuse in it.

Specifications:
Type: Headlight
LED Power: 45W/High Beam,30W/Low Beam
Lumens: 4000LM//High Beam,2800LM/Low Beam
LED: Osram LED Chips
Size: 5.75"
Color: Black
Bulb Socket: H4
Housing: Die-cast Aluminum
Waterproof: IP65
Color Temperature: 6000K (White)
Operating Voltage: DC 10-30V
Life-span: Above 50000Hours
Warranty: 1 Year
 
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