H4 Dual Headlight Relay Kit

My installation is tucked behind the headlight and wrapped in shrink tubing and tape, there's nothing to see back there but a black mass. That's why I suggested the longer leads so that mess can be moved under the tank. I also have a headlight modulator and additional relays that control my auxiliary driving lights as well as accent lighting. These have manual and automatic settings via switches on the bars (I have a two switch Tiumph pod on both sides) so my solution will be quite different than what's suggested.

The Eastern Beaver harness is very easy to install ... the only connections are to the battery and taking place of one factory headlight. Essentially it just plugs in place of one headlight and uses the two headlight plugs on the harness instead. The most difficult part is routing the harness into the buckets and to the battery. If you opted for the switched control, just route those two wires to a location where you want to mount a switch (I used the plastic trim cover on the right side behind the motor).

Eastern Beaver's website has installation instructions but they are pretty much what I just said. Their diagram is different in that the R3 has two (2) H4 sockets rather than one.

The two blue connectors you are talking about are probably the Posi-lock wiring connectors he includes with the kit just in case you want to cut off the H4 plugs and wire it directly. That's optional and saves fishing the H4's through the headlight buckets. If you want to do that, just do one wire at a time so you don't get confused.
 
Another thing I did different is that I removed ALL of the wires from BOTH headlight buckets and the only thing going back in is the Beaver's H4 harness plugs. I disabled the park lights anyway so they wouldn't be on when I turned off the headlights. This let me make all the wire connections outside the cramped space of the buckets (those buckets are VERY small inside).
 
while waiting for hellfire pictures I posted the picture of the PC8 .since my left side is widely free I made an aluminium plate that I bent at 90 degrees and bolted it to the aluminiun relay holder tab found there with 2 small nuts and bolts then I mounted the gipro, and gps on switched fuses , headlights will go to unswitched fuse and batt charging posts also on unswitched fuse all the other fuses are just there as spare.
 

the kit I received has the two three prongs plugs for the headlight buckets the two wires for the cutout switch and TWO more wires with the blue posilock terminals the other end of the kit will mount on the PC8 so I think I will bypass entirely the factory harness , it is just those two posilok ends that still baffle me .......eventually the ligh will shine in my cranium butright now I am still totally fogged in
 
which kit?

I am looking at the Eastern Beaver website and I am not sure which kit I would need to go on the R3 Touring single headlight?
Hellfire, your opinion is valued and if this was the kind of bike you had which kit would you get?
 
Link Removed

You got the kit that has posilocks for the bike side. You will connect those two to the high and low wires on one of the head lights H4 sockets on the bike. (the black is ground and unused in this case)
 
Macrider said:
I am looking at the Eastern Beaver website and I am not sure which kit I would need to go on the R3 Touring single headlight?
Hellfire, your opinion is valued and if this was the kind of bike you had which kit would you get?
Click to expand...
You want an H4 single headlight relay kit. Probably the faring mount version so that you can select the length of the lead wires. I suggest you email Jim and check with him on the suggested length and if you want a low beam switched version. jim@easternbeaver.com
 
The single H4 fairing mount with 16" leads will work on an R3T, but it would be easier with a 20 or 24" lead.
 
HellFire said:
Link Removed

You got the kit that has posilocks for the bike side. You will connect those two to the high and low wires on one of the head lights H4 sockets on the bike. (the black is ground and unused in this case)
Click to expand...


I think I got it ... what screwed me was the terminology basically the two blue wirelocks connect to the hot lo/hi beam that is going to the headlight via the left handlebar toggle switch correct ? say yes and I get a cold beer right away to cool off the brain drain
 
Yes.
You can tap into either existing headlight H4 connection, just tape off the other so that it doesn't touch anything and short. It's used as the trigger to energize the relays, the new H4 connectors will get power directly from the battery now .... that's why the lights are much brighter.
 
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