H4 Dual Headlight Relay Kit

I ordered the dual with low beam shut off, figgured that option could come in handy one day should the battery get low or I wanna be stealthy. :cool:
I sure hope it does brightens up the headlights, riding half blind everytime it gets dark has gotten old (me too :p), but even if it doesn't with the Sylvania bright-stars it has now ... I will feel better about running PIAA's or something else later on with more wattage knowing the power draw isn't going to burn out another keyswitch (I very well could have killed the last one myself :rolleyes:).
My only concern is how much room there will be inside the headlight assemblies for the parts.
 
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I ordered the standard dual headlght kit, no extra switch provisions. At first the pic looks complicated, but the longer you stare at it you come to realize how simple his kit is. The hardest thing to do should be raising the tank past the Rivco risers. I'm thinking this will help with my Rockets "yellow light syndrome" and make the ignition switch last longer. Got an email Sunday that it had been shipped.

I have had the Rivco risers on for about four years now and I have no problem what so ever in raising the petrol tank, I posted a video here or on the .com site showing how easy it is.:confused::confused::confused:
 
I have had the Rivco risers on for about four years now and I have no problem what so ever in raising the petrol tank, I posted a video here or on the .com site showing how easy it is.:confused::confused::confused:
There are differences from year to year in how the bar clamps to the risers, my '08 standard won't let the tank lift with the rivco's unless the bar clamp is removed, the risers moved everything back too far to clear. It's still no big project to lift the tank, just had to add a step to the process.
 
Are these kits for a complete bypass of the switch? Does that mean your headlight switch high low will no longer work? In electrics I'm disabled, but if I can avoid the classic switch meltdown I'll be a super happy camper.
 
Are these kits for a complete bypass of the switch?

No they add extra amps to the headlight by way of a relay connected to the battery. The relay is activated when the ignition is turned on, this reduces the amp load through the ignition switch and will stop it melting the solder on the connections.

Does that mean your headlight switch high low will no longer work?

The high / low switch will still work and will last longer as well.
 
This guy puts this stuff together with care and quality parts. The stuff comes from overseas so be patient. It'll get here.

Yeah man, real "Made in Japan" parts ... did you take the photo tour of his dwelling? It's so small, (How small is it?) It's so small it makes his little Poodles look HUGE! :D

*Applause*

:eek: ..... You really had to be there ....
 
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Since I already have a Stebel horn under the left side cover, I decided to mount the fuse block in the area behind the battery.
 

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Since I already have a Stebel horn under the left side cover, I decided to mount the fuse block in the area behind the battery.
Pretty slick idea ... lets you add anything you want by just screwing it down to the block and adding a fuse?
 
Yeah, that's the idea. I have a power socket on the way from Eastern Beaver (along with an H4 Relay kit) that will be added. I may have to pull the battery for access to the ground side but that only takes a few minutes.
 
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