Gremlins, they happen to everyone.

[BillB]

Thanks for the edification everyone.

@Claviger how much HP do you think it would cost to yank all that fancy stuff off and hang 3 side draft carbs and a set of points on it?

@Speedy can I just send the manometer to you for a rebuild?

@warp9.9 didn't get a chance to tell you at MV but the half inch longer shocks with the fat boy springs are the cats a$$. Makes the fat bottomed girl feel almost lively.

@TRIUMPH Corp if any of you are listening. If yer customer service was half as helpful as the folks on this forum are, you couldn't build 'em fast enough to keep up with demand.

 

[BDKcoyote]

I know, I'm kind of gushing, but Jesus it's like someone took my bike and replaced with the same build but different one. It's perfect again!! So happy.

WOW! What a difference it makes. So much smoother, especially on roundabouts in the rain. All of the low speed snatching and jerkiness is gone. Thank you so much for the recommendation.

 

[Tripps]

I can't remember if it was this thread, but you talked about positive crankcase pressure, other dawned on me today how you could do it, ram air, lol, I think that would be a first.

 

[Claviger]

Thanks for the edification everyone.

@Claviger how much HP do you think it would cost to yank all that fancy stuff off and hang 3 side draft carbs and a set of points on it?

@Speedy can I just send the manometer to you for a rebuild?

@warp9.9 didn't get a chance to tell you at MV but the half inch longer shocks with the fat boy springs are the cats a$$. Makes the fat bottomed girl feel almost lively.

@TRIUMPH Corp if any of you are listening. If yer customer service was half as helpful as the folks on this forum are, you couldn't build 'em fast enough to keep up with demand.

None, ITB vs 3 Carbs are equally capable of achieving the same peak power. It'll cost you torque everywhere below peak and it won't start or run as nicely at part throttle.

I won't be doing this, but, if one wanted to simplify the intake side, I think the best way would be the following.
- Remove and replaced ITB with intake manifold using 21" 75mm bellmouthed runners that tapper down to 56mm and a 3.5 L plenum.
- Add a single TB, larger, and rewire the setup to use stock TPS on single TB.
- add vacuum ports on each runner for the MAP sensor so the ECU sees the same thing.

Simple, heimholtz tuned, and will add torque below 3500 whilst retaining nearly all the top end power.

 

[Tripps]

Dude, you missed your calling, you should have your own motorcycle company.

 

[Claviger]

Thank you haha. I've just learned from the many members here .

Our community has more depth and breadth of experience than any other I've ever seen, and people actually share knowledge.

It's one of the many reasons I love the R3.

 

[BillB]

Well last Saturday was blocked off for some serious whammer waving at the TPS + ISCV voltage settings. A/C humming along nicely, some frosty beverages in the fridge for a victory celebration. Took some time checking vacuum hoses and relearning what lives under the tank, reading the manual and making sure what was going to need adjusting and how to do it.

Fired up the ISCV adjustment test. Light it off, then found out to my disappointment that after 3 runs through the procedure that my TPS voltage was .63 to .64 and the ISCV voltage was hovering around .75

Guess I really shouldn't be too disappointed because they have never been changed so the PCV map was done with them like that so maybe that's a good thing.

Did balance the throttle bodies. 2 and 3 were identical at 570. 1 was way off at 620. Seems like it improved things, I am however, still suspicious of how accurate those readings on tuneecu are though. The manual does state that you can't use the 'factory tool' to adjust the TB'S on the touring and the manometer is the way to do it with the MAP sensor electrically disconnected.

The good news is that since I had extra time left for whammer waving, I found out how to clean and refill my manometer.

So next weekend I will use the manometer to prove or disprove my suspicions about the accuracy of using tuneecu to balance them on a R3T.

 

[1K9]

Well last Saturday was blocked off for some serious whammer waving at the TPS + ISCV voltage settings. A/C humming along nicely, some frosty beverages in the fridge for a victory celebration. Took some time checking vacuum hoses and relearning what lives under the tank, reading the manual and making sure what was going to need adjusting and how to do it.

Fired up the ISCV adjustment test. Light it off, then found out to my disappointment that after 3 runs through the procedure that my TPS voltage was .63 to .64 and the ISCV voltage was hovering around .75

Guess I really shouldn't be too disappointed because they have never been changed so the PCV map was done with them like that so maybe that's a good thing.

Did balance the throttle bodies. 2 and 3 were identical at 570. 1 was way off at 620. Seems like it improved things, I am however, still suspicious of how accurate those readings on tuneecu are though. The manual does state that you can't use the 'factory tool' to adjust the TB'S on the touring and the manometer is the way to do it with the MAP sensor electrically disconnected.

The good news is that since I had extra time left for whammer waving, I found out how to clean and refill my manometer.

So next weekend I will use the manometer to prove or disprove my suspicions about the accuracy of using tuneecu to balance them on a R3T.

Your bike should be Purrring. I have manometers for the Valkyrie but TuneECU is better. Never even seen a Touring under the tank. Can't imagine why they would be different.