Gauge Problem.

[Lenny]

Yes Ken the grips are working and all the fuses are working, also i checked the conections and they all seems fine...gauges are not sweeping and the odometer its fading more and more....perhabs the problem its the gauge itself?

Like i said once i shut off the bike the trip meter resets itself....this is getting very annoying.

 

[sleeves]

Hi Lenny

Woah read this with interest now don't know if this will be much help, but read the conversations and your comments to this point. When I had my problems we basically wheeled the bike into the garage and said its not moving till we find the fault then systematically tested and measured, writing down results and checking against the manual/wiring loom. How we eventually found my fault. Its simply elimination

Do you have a copy of the wiring diagram? If so send me a conversation with your email and I'll send a copy.

Anyway I have looked at the wiring diagram. The instrument cluster has a plug under the tank that connects it, if you unplug this and reconnect it you will also reset the odometer. There is a purple wire that is the positive feed to the instrument cluster, check it and ensure it has power. Interestingly the Accessory clock, heated grips (you have Oxford off another relay so forget this) and the Acc plug (also not used?)

I would first try unplugging the clock you have and seeing if the issue persists.

Also Is it possible that when you are turning the bars the connector plug is being pulled or twisted? I ask this as the tank recesses down into the frame and if incorrectly placed it may be being loaded.

The next area I would look would be the earth for the instrument cluster and I cannot see one clearly on the diagram (you'll have to excuse me as I'm cranked up on painkillers at moment due to kidney stones and waiting for an operation), that's why I'm so busy on here at mo, no riding on. But after staring at the lines it would appear the earth is a common line throughout the loom, there are four black lines coming off 5,6,10,12. A bad earth will give you similar results.

I would gradually unplug each area, switching the ignition to see which area makes a difference. Sorry its much easier when your standing looking at the bike than trying to write an explanation, sadly your a long way away from NZ.

Lastly it may be the actual instrument cluster but that would be a last and expensive resort...

Also be very careful and avoid melting the loom.

Keep me posted how you get on and if you need the wiring diagram let me know.

 

[DEcosse]

Here is a schematic I created that shows each of the wire functions to the instruments
Originally posted here - http://www.r3owners.net/threads/instrument-replacement.20608/#post-287645



My initial premise was no power on pin 17 - from Fuse #3. which also feeds the clock, accessory socket and heated grips.
Sleeves is suggesting you're not using the OEM heated grips connector? How about your clock - does that hold time when it's off? Is IT connected to the OEM connector?

Use the method here to measure the Voltage at Fuse 3 - http://www.r3owners.net/threads/checking-fuses.22842/

 

[DEcosse]

From the Update Kit Instructions:

There is a breakout connector to bypass the main instrument connector - it appears that was identified as a failure point

The short version

1. Disconnect the Purple, the Red and Red/Orange Wires from the Instrument side of the Instrument connector
2. Disconnect the Purple, the Red and Red/Orange Wires from the Main Harness side of the Instrument connector
3. Use a suitable (sealed) 3-way connector set to interconnect these separately from the OEM connector.

As you can see from my schematic above, the Purple is the Constant Power; the Red is the Tach signal and the Red/Orange is the Speed Signal)
Because of the trip memory going out, the only one of these that could cause this is the Purple Wire.

So begin by just inspecting the terminals of the connector set, particularly that for the Purple Wires
(Honestly, if you don't see any damage on the terminals I would doubt if you would gain much by changing the connectors - take a good look at them though!)

Here are the actual Triumph instructions for the bypass connector set:

 

[Lenny]

From the Update Kit Instructions:

There is a breakout connector to bypass the main instrument connector - it appears that was identified as a failure point

The short version

1. Disconnect the Purple, the Red and Red/Orange Wires from the Instrument side of the Instrument connector
2. Disconnect the Purple, the Red and Red/Orange Wires from the Main Harness side of the Instrument connector
3. Use a suitable (sealed) 3-way connector set to interconnect these separately from the OEM connector.

As you can see from my schematic above, the Purple is the Constant Power; the Red is the Tach signal and the Red/Orange is the Speed Signal)
Because of the trip memory going out, the only one of these that could cause this is the Purple Wire.

So begin by just inspecting the terminals of the connector set, particularly that for the Purple Wires
(Honestly, if you don't see any damage on the terminals I would doubt if you would gain much by changing the connectors - take a good look at them though!)

Here are the actual Triumph instructions for the bypass connector set:

Yes the clock Still holds the correct time when the bike its off...

 

[warp9.9]

From the Update Kit Instructions:

There is a breakout connector to bypass the main instrument connector - it appears that was identified as a failure point

The short version

1. Disconnect the Purple, the Red and Red/Orange Wires from the Instrument side of the Instrument connector
2. Disconnect the Purple, the Red and Red/Orange Wires from the Main Harness side of the Instrument connector
3. Use a suitable (sealed) 3-way connector set to interconnect these separately from the OEM connector.

As you can see from my schematic above, the Purple is the Constant Power; the Red is the Tach signal and the Red/Orange is the Speed Signal)
Because of the trip memory going out, the only one of these that could cause this is the Purple Wire.

So begin by just inspecting the terminals of the connector set, particularly that for the Purple Wires
(Honestly, if you don't see any damage on the terminals I would doubt if you would gain much by changing the connectors - take a good look at them though!)

Here are the actual Triumph instructions for the bypass connector set:

I am taking a shot here @DEcosse
I think this modification was made before they realized the main connector was not moisture proof. I am just guessing because when you look at the next section in the update kit about changing the whole block connector it does not have or show the other harness update. It shows you cutting all the wires and adding them all to the new plug. A easy way to confirm this would be to have someone with a 09 look at the connectors and see if the break out is in it. My bet is no!

 

[Pedro]

I have worked on a 09 and it had the break out installed stock

 

[warp9.9]

I have worked on a 09 and it had the break out installed stock

Good to know I will have to lift the tank on my newer bike to see if it was installed with the update kit (to be honest I have not lifted the tank on it yet ). When Triumph did my 06 I am not sure the break out was in the kit yet as the idiots did not even install the big connector

 

[Jabo75]

Today after i turned on the bike i noticed that the odometer was very dim...anyway since i used the trip meter everytime i fuel up i went to see how many miles i had done and it reset itself(like when you disconnect the battery,but i havent).

Now everytime i shut off the bike the trip meter reset itself and the odometer its very dim...

Ideas?

I had that problem along with the gauges not sweeping until after the motor was started. Finally had to replace the gauges. Not cheap.

I am having the same issue with my 05, 26,000 miles.
Symptoms:

• Warning lights will not come on (nor will tach sweep), UNLESS, I more the big while in gear forward or backward, then the tach sweeps and the warning lights come on.
• Odometer was dim, although over the course of 3 weeks, it seems to have gotten brighter (more contrast).
• Trip odometers still reset every time I shut the bike off.
• Occasionally, the bike won't start (starter won't engage) on the first try. I have to shut it off turn it back on.
• The speedo never sweeps before starting.

Steps I have taken:

• Prior owner has already replaced the ignition switch.
• Popped the tank and disconnected, cleaned and dielectric greased every connector under the tank.
• Checked the ECU plugs for any water leakage.
• Tested fuses.
• Disconnected the battery (to reset the ECU).
• Replaced the speed sensor (once I noticed that rocking the bike caused the warning lights and tack sweep to happen, it seemed like a reasonable next step). Cost was $160.

I have a Tune ECU cable on order from Amazon, although I am planning on taking it to the dealer on Thursday. I will update when I have more information.

 

[DEcosse]

So I'm just a dumb guy trying to interpret schematics & other resources to suggest causes (no Rocket to look at)
And I look at schematic & see one thing; but looking at hardware I see something else;
not shown on schematic, there is a sub harness from the main instrument connector to the two individual connectors for each instrument
Interesting that there is different part number for the sub-harness that kicked in at serial 322157 which might be with the break-out connector.

Odo Trip Resets
Tach does not sweep

If problems are on BOTH instruments. you have to look to common factor - that again points to the power source i.e. The Purple wire or perhaps the Ignition Power - Green/Red* or illum Power Red/Blue
It also suggests unlikely to be an instrument failure you could reasonably deduce?

*Note there are two Green/Red wires with completely different functions - just 'Brilliant' Triumph.
(that has been the same regarding those colour designations for ignition power and left turn on just about every Triumph in the Hinckley era)

Also inspect the two plugs into each individual instrument itself; also, there has to be splices somewhere on that sub-harness since there are common wires to each gauge.

One other interesting note is the reference in the update statement that says "poor connection AND ELECTRICAL INTERFERENCE"