Front Accessory Socket No Power

[Jay]

When I go in for my 600mi service I'm getting that side aux power outlet as well as TSA, sport windscreen and heated grips. I use Gerbing heated gear as I like to ride as long as there is no ice on the road and want the side power socket for that. I already have the Thunder Box under my seat as well and need to fish the cable for my Zumo XT2 under the tank to it. I guess I finally have a use for that endoscope that's been sitting in a box for years. I don't use phone mounts so that front power socket will likely never get used anyway but it should work.
I have the Gerbing Vanguard heated gloves, which are amazing, but I'm pampering myself with the heated grips for those times when I use regular gloves and a little heat would be nice.

windchill at 48-degrees and 90+ mph necessitate heated gloves and grips to keep a rider happy. Hand guards help too if you like the look. Good luck running that wire. I always remove the tank to ensure properly securing the wires. Maybe you're more skilled with running a zip-tie using the endoscope . However you do it, your plan sounds outstanding.

That Thunder Box looks interesting. I have an Amplink 60 that I am planning for this bike, was going to use an PDM 60 on my last bike (never got around to it), and used a Fuzebloks FZ-1 on my FJR. In all cases the 60 amps was needed for the aux lights, heated clothing, heated seats, horn (with higher rated input requirements), GPS, and Phone mounts I had running off the battery with switched power. I also had sockets for passenger and dog heat when I road 2- and 3-up. Anyway, that Thunder Box has 32A max, so curious if that will be enough. Looks like a tight little unit though. I like the smaller size than the devices mentioned above. (sorry for hijacking your thread to discuss power accessories).

 

[Protonhound]

windchill at 48-degrees and 90+ mph necessitate heated gloves and grips to keep a rider happy. Hand guards help too if you like the look. Good luck running that wire. I always remove the tank to ensure properly securing the wires. Maybe you're more skilled with running a zip-tie using the endoscope . However you do it, your plan sounds outstanding.

That Thunder Box looks interesting. I have an Amplink 60 that I am planning for this bike, was going to use an PDM 60 on my last bike (never got around to it), and used a Fuzebloks FZ-1 on my FJR. In all cases the 60 amps was needed for the aux lights, heated clothing, heated seats, horn (with higher rated input requirements), GPS, and Phone mounts I had running off the battery with switched power. I also had sockets for passenger and dog heat when I road 2- and 3-up. Anyway, that Thunder Box has 32A max, so curious if that will be enough. Looks like a tight little unit though. I like the smaller size than the devices mentioned above. (sorry for hijacking your thread to discuss power accessories).

No worries, power accessories and power adjacent accessories are all good. I'm more of a minimalist though. My heated gloves and jacket liner along with a Zumo are all I really need. I don't like having a phone on the bar, I keep that in my tank bag and am waiting for the plate to attach my Zumo to the handle bar mounts.
So why I got the 32A Thunder Box I don't know, I guess just in case.

 

[Jay]

No worries, power accessories and power adjacent accessories are all good. I'm more of a minimalist though. My heated gloves and jacket liner along with a Zumo are all I really need. I don't like having a phone on the bar, I keep that in my tank bag and am waiting for the plate to attach my Zumo to the handle bar mounts.
So why I got the 32A Thunder Box I don't know, I guess just in case.

The TB gives you expansion options if you choose to go for a bigger horn or auxiliary lights. The options are endless.

 

[Journeyman]

@Protonhound you're a busy new owner getting your bike dialed in Here's two photos from when I did the 10K service that might be of help. You'll want to run those wires down the left side. There's nothing for them to catch on except the tank mount. I ran wire for auxiliary lights without pulling the tank before the 10K service using a long zip tie to fish them in. At the 10K service I added a few more catch points for the wire, but it was fine before. So, over the tank mount on the left and then zip tie near the head stock to keep the wires from falling down up front. Here's the link for the 10K service, as well, in case you want to do that yourself.

The left side is pretty smooth and bare and a good place to run accessory wires to lights, etc.

The right side by comparison....

10k mile service - DIY (also, Spark Plugs Not Tight & Wire Boots Not Pushed On!)

Sharing my experience here changing the air and fuel filter and inspecting the spark plugs. Refer to the manual for the basics, but here are things that may help, along with some very surprising discoveries I made... 1) Removing the tank There are three things to disconnect besides the bolt...

www.r3owners.net

 

[Protonhound]

@Protonhound you're a busy new owner getting your bike dialed in Here's two photos from when I did the 10K service that might be of help. You'll want to run those wires down the left side. There's nothing for them to catch on except the tank mount. I ran wire for auxiliary lights without pulling the tank before the 10K service using a long zip tie to fish them in. At the 10K service I added a few more catch points for the wire, but it was fine before. So, over the tank mount on the left and then zip tie near the head stock to keep the wires from falling down up front. Here's the link for the 10K service, as well, in case you want to do that yourself.

The left side is pretty smooth and bare and a good place to run accessory wires to lights, etc.

The right side by comparison....

10k mile service - DIY (also, Spark Plugs Not Tight & Wire Boots Not Pushed On!)

Sharing my experience here changing the air and fuel filter and inspecting the spark plugs. Refer to the manual for the basics, but here are things that may help, along with some very surprising discoveries I made... 1) Removing the tank There are three things to disconnect besides the bolt...

www.r3owners.net

Thanks! I actually saved those pics from your original post that I found a while a go.

 

[Edge]

Out of curiosity does your under seat USB charger work? I just picked up a used Rocket 3 that only had 320 miles on it but both the front auxiliary power port and the under seat USB port are dead.

I don’t know what kind of life the bike lived in its short 320 mile life but the former owner seemed pretty rough with it. The cover to the front auxiliary power port is broken off and I figured maybe some water got in there and damaged it. Was hoping it was as simple as replacing the accessory fuse in the fuse panel but it seems to be good.

 

[Protonhound]

Out of curiosity does your under seat USB charger work? I just picked up a used Rocket 3 that only had 320 miles on it but both the front auxiliary power port and the under seat USB port are dead.

I don’t know what kind of life the bike lived in its short 320 mile life but the former owner seemed pretty rough with it. The cover to the front auxiliary power port is broken off and I figured maybe some water got in there and damaged it. Was hoping it was as simple as replacing the accessory fuse in the fuse panel but it seems to be good.

Despite what the manual says the front at least is switched for sure and it will only turn on when it senses a load. I have not tried the usb port.

 

[Edge]

Despite what the manual says the front at least is switched for sure and it will only turn on when it senses a load. I have not tried the usb port.

I’m an idiot. Since I was thinking about it I just went out and replaced the fuse and now my front auxiliary port has power (USB still does not, though). Swear to God the fuse looked perfectly fine but maybe my aging eyes are trying to tell me something…

 

[Protonhound]

@Protonhound you're a busy new owner getting your bike dialed in Here's two photos from when I did the 10K service that might be of help. You'll want to run those wires down the left side. There's nothing for them to catch on except the tank mount. I ran wire for auxiliary lights without pulling the tank before the 10K service using a long zip tie to fish them in. At the 10K service I added a few more catch points for the wire, but it was fine before. So, over the tank mount on the left and then zip tie near the head stock to keep the wires from falling down up front. Here's the link for the 10K service, as well, in case you want to do that yourself.

The left side is pretty smooth and bare and a good place to run accessory wires to lights, etc.

The right side by comparison....

10k mile service - DIY (also, Spark Plugs Not Tight & Wire Boots Not Pushed On!)

Sharing my experience here changing the air and fuel filter and inspecting the spark plugs. Refer to the manual for the basics, but here are things that may help, along with some very surprising discoveries I made... 1) Removing the tank There are three things to disconnect besides the bolt...

www.r3owners.net

It seems that if I lift the tank just a little on the seat end and hold it up with a piece of wood I might just get enough access to pull the wire through. I was using my endoscope and realized that I was way too low as I could see the spark plug wires and a bunch of other stuff in that area right on top of the engine. I'll try again tomorrow.

 

[Journeyman]

It seems that if I lift the tank just a little on the seat end and hold it up with a piece of wood I might just get enough access to pull the wire through. I was using my endoscope and realized that I was way too low as I could see the spark plug wires and a bunch of other stuff in that area right on top of the engine. I'll try again tomorrow.

That will work. Not even sure if you need to lift the tank at all, but maybe. Just stay on the left side and angle up and above where you estimate that the tank mount is located.