Finally, I'm comfortable

Zonechamp

Supercharged
Joined
Sep 4, 2014
Messages
216
Location
Saskatchewan, Canada
Ride
2009 Rocket 3 Standard
I installed my new CES exhaust a few weeks ago and noticed the brake reservoir had to be relocated to keep it from melting. Instead of just shimming it out, I reworked my peg rails altogether. I cut them apart and rewelded them so the pegs are about 2" lower to the ground, but are still in the same position horizontally. I should have taken a before picture, but the top of the chrome reservoir cover was the same height as the top of the lower pipe. Now I have clearance and a better foot position. Now to black them out!

 
Last edited:

Nice workmanship, Amigo, but be prepared to lose those pristine peg feelers . . . & way more if ya hoon the twisties!
 
1olbull said:
Nice workmanship, Amigo, but be prepared to lose those pristine peg feelers . . . & way more if ya hoon the twisties!
Click to expand...

I measured them before I set my height. My chin spoiler will still hit first, as before. But my size 12 will be allot closer to the pavement for sure.
 
Zonechamp said:
I measured them before I set my height. My chin spoiler will still hit first, as before. But my size 12 will be allot closer to the pavement for sure.
Click to expand...

All I know is I tried 1 inch lower rear shockies once and it was disaster!
They hardly made 100 miles.
 
barbagris said:
Roadster pegs are lower than the pre-roadster ones.
Click to expand...

I measured the Roadster rails as well. My rail is about an 1/2" higher now than a factory Roadster, but my pegs are at least 6" further forward. So in theory my pegs should be closer to the ground with the turning angle added in. It doesn't really matter though because I matched my lean angle with the chin spoiler, and that's what hits first. I don't mind grinding the peg feelers away, but that fiberglass could get expensive.
 
Your modification has me thinking, that my 6’10 frame with size 15 boots could really benefit from an extra 2 inches at the pegs. Did you cut and remove part of rail or cut and twist without removing rail. Might answer my own question when looking at my bike, would appreciate a bit more detail or a close up picture of your rails.

In your opinion, how much could I move the pegs forward without modifying controls.
 
Last edited:
So basically I cut the rail into 5 pcs. The 2 engine mounts, the center section and the 2 bent pcs. I did not bend anything in my rebuild, but I did switch 2 pcs from the left to the right and turned them upside down. Other than that I just changed the the angles on the welds. To move the pegs forward and lower them, it would be easier to just bend up a new rail using a piece of rod which was my original intention. The controls are an easy fix as well. On the brake side a new solid line and brake bleed would be required. On the shifter side, a longer shifter rod. Both easy fixes. The only reason I saved my chrome bits is I was surprised how well they lined up in the end. Even if you can't fab or weld, it wouldn't take a competent welder anymore than 3 hours to make the rails from scratch. I used a stainless steel rod so it doesn't rust up right away.
 
"Very sweet machine big guy" Be Safe!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Finally show room
2 3
Replies
22
Views
1K
canecorso
Finally got my Big Beast back
5 6 7
Replies
64
Views
7K
Rheo
New Rear Array . . . Finally!
2 3 4
Replies
38
Views
4K
1olbull
Rocket Monster mods finally done
2 3 4
Replies
34
Views
6K
Torque addict
Finally got around to installing Dave Platt Exhaust
2
Replies
11
Views
4K
geno
Menu
Log in
Register