Status
Not open for further replies.
Quite honestly Donivan, I have no idea.
That could range quite considerable.
Usually when I go out for a ride, I start and warm the bike thoroughly, then when I get out on the road I go pretty hard.
Even when riding like this I've never had a heat issue.
Next time I'm out and ride hard like this I'll take a heat reading when I get back, that could be a while as it's Winter here in NZ at present and fair persisting down.

AAA.jpg
What set up are you running Paul? I have a call in to the dealer, and might take it in and have them take a look at it. I don't want to damage anything. I will post with what they come up with.
 
What set up are you running Paul? I have a call in to the dealer, and might take it in and have them take a look at it. I don't want to damage anything. I will post with what they come up with.

I'm running exactly this same header, but with a twin Muffler rear end system.
My bike, as always it the development/test Mule.
 
I'm running exactly this same header, but with a twin Muffler rear end system.
My bike, as always it the development/test Mule.
It looked a little different, that's why I asked. I'm actually pretty surprised that you don't have a range of temperatures for your headers. Like idleing for five minutes, or something like that, or some kind of benchmark. Especially if your bike is the test mule.
Maybe that is something you can provide in the future.
 
It looked a little different, that's why I asked. I'm actually pretty surprised that you don't have a range of temperatures for your headers. Like idleing for five minutes, or something like that, or some kind of benchmark. Especially if your bike is the test mule.
Maybe that is something you can provide in the future.


Well possibly.
But getting the actual work done is my priority.
Time to "play around" with this sort of stuff just doesn't happen.
Currently, and always, have 3 months work ahead of me.
Usually when I'm out on the bike "Business" is left waaaay behind. This is my time out.
 
Paul, regardless of what you did first, I've asked you for something relatively simple, and you have all but refused to do it.
Post some Temp #'s. Squash this, 1 hour out of your day, and I'll pay you for your time. The more you back off on this the worse you look. Pretty easy fix I would say...

As I said, your work is great, I am satisfied with what I received. However, I would like you to post some standard numbers, so I have a benchmark to work off of. Will you, or will you not post the standardized #'s that I requested. Or you can email them to me.

I didn't want to get into a pissing match with you, but you are the vendor, I am the customer, and I have asked you for information that is completely reasonable.
Mate I am going to frank and up front here ALL after market header systems are going to be hotter than the standard header because the Standard header has multiple layer Heat shielding, Paul system are actually the best I have seen And I have seen All of them Zard's, Carpenter's, Reband's and CES as well as Pauls Viking system, I have listed them in order of of leg clearance, I didn't list Jardines as they are not in the same league performance wise. I might Add that Pauls System would be the one I would buy should I get another Rocket down the track due to his Excellent workmanship and finished product second choice and a close second would be the CES.
Pauls system and CES are possibly the best fit with out any mods except that on some models you may need to space out the brake master cylinder with the CES, Ceramic coating reduces the heat radiated to your leg.
Before I had the CES headers I had a set of Sam's Thug headers they were Stainless and Ceramic coated with twin layer Heat shields Sam only supplied the heat shield for the Thug header and the Predators because the pipes were mainly straight and even he said that making the heat shield were a pain in the arse to make so I can understand these other system makers not wanting to make them as as the heat shield would cause a Dramatic rise in Price .... would you be prepared to pay an extra $500 + (only a guess as they would be very much time consuming to make them follow the lines of the headers.
Now as for the Temp # that is irrelevant as almost every bike out there are going to run at a different temp.
My solution to avoid excessive heat was to wear Leather pants or to wear horseriding lower leg chaps over my wets (even tried them over my jeans in summer with good effect).
The only solution I can suggest is to go to a Dyno Tuner Who Knows TuneECU and hopefully he can get it to run cooler with the crap Ethanol fuel you are forced to use in California.
There is Also one other solution and Possibly The Best Solution for you and that is to buy a Power Commander V(5) plus the Auto Tune Module and run my AFR map I created which will be like being on Dyno All the time as it will monitor the exhaust gases All the time and adjust the fueling to suit, I have Dozen of guy all over the world and I also used it myself with Great success, my Rocket Purrred when cruising or lifted it skirt and ripped up the tracmac when I felt aggressive
 
I didn't list Jardines as they are not in the same league performance wise.
True - but they had heat shields. And yes they still seem hotter than Stock. I added another trouser shield.



Anybody with a CES - the shield solution posted by @cskals was really neat.

Interested you tried equestrine gaiters, Hans. - I've been toying with the idea. Melted two waterproof over-trousers onto the pipes.
I added bulkhead mat (fibreglass mat) to the inside leg of one pair of cordura pants. That works too.

PCV/AT - it works.
 
I have a little something to throw in. Friday afternoon was the first real ride with the new exhaust. The pipes did seem to get rather warm. 87 degrees out with 80% humidity. Just figured that is the way it was. Sunday morning went out for a good hard run for about four hours. Weather was a lot cooling and did not notice very much heat coming off of pipes until I started to head home. Washed the bike Sunday afternoon. Normal wash routine is to start the bike after rinse to help dry everything out. That is when I found the leak in the exhaust. The clamp that hold the muffler on was leaking. Water on the pipe was being blown almost to the foot-peg. When I revved the engine the water was reaching the foot-peg. Went and got a 11 mm socket and much to my surprise it was loose. My bust in my hurry up and get her done state of mind I forgot to tighten the clamp up. When I installed the pipe I left every thing loose and tighten after everything was in position. Well almost everything. I did a soap check around the header and found no leaks. Apparently in my hurry up and get it done forgot to soap check the clamp and connection. Really did not think about it after fixing leak. No big deal. Well today it was about the same 87 degrees and about 80% humidity. Pipes got warm but no where near as warm as Friday. Imagine that. At 70 mph given the location of the leak it was blowing right on my foot and lower leg. Much better now and the slight backfire is gone to when slowing down. Sometimes I can be a real dumb #ss. We have access to some temperature gauges at work. If they let me which they more than likely will in a day or two I can hook you up with some readings Super D. Just for general info: I am tickled #hitles with the pipes and the tune. Thanks again Paul and Hanso.
 
Last edited:
True - but they had heat shields. And yes they still seem hotter than Stock. I added another trouser shield.



Anybody with a CES - the shield solution posted by @cskals was really neat.

Interested you tried equestrian gaiters, Hans. - I've been toying with the idea. Melted two waterproof over-trousers onto the pipes.
I added bulkhead mat (fibreglass mat) to the inside leg of one pair of cordura pants. That works too.

PCV/AT - it works.
they actually still called them chaps but Yes they are Equestrian Gaiters but not the fancy polished black ones these are made of Suede with Velcro fasteners on the out side and a loop that goes under the boot, quick and easy to put on and remove I got the idea of looking for them after seeing Steve's @1olbull one leg giter he or someone made for him
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top