Enlisting Mufasa for Salt Duty

[Claviger]

So the full cost with shipping, duties, and bearings (yes uncle Sam hit me with duties ) was $2,250. It's 26lbs without a tire but with bearings, so, heavier, but also stronger than stock.

TT600 front rotor to use as rear rotor on new wheel - $25.

Mufasa now wears the Daytona's switch gear, throttle, master cylinder, levers; the full bar control setup. All mounted to Alice's stock bars (they're the lowest and narrowest setup that will fit without tank modification), mounted to Rox 2" Risers rotated forward to move bars as far forward as possible but not raised at all.

The full control setup "just" fits with the fairing mounted, and will likely remain permanently, converting the riding position to a very sportbike(ish) arm portion of the rider triangle, more suited to how I ride.

 

[Claviger]

26.5" mounted... Just right lol.

 

[Justdad]

26.5" mounted... Just right lol.

I can't wait to turn and burn on this new rubber in just two weeks.

 

[Claviger]

Test fit is done. Steve Taylor is my hero, the builder of the wheel.

It is...exactly correct. Learned my plastic final drive dust cover is warped from heat today and is no longer a concentric circle... Will trim 3 mm off it and everything will line up without touching. I'm guessing frequent high speeds caused heat to warp it. Like cruising at 100mph+ in 100f+ ambient in TX/AZ for a full tank type heat, not normal runs.

The stock wheel has a little flute there that gives extra clearance for it, why I never noticed it before.

 

[Claviger]

Oh, and, the pair of new wheel and 200/60 tire is about 5 lbs lighter than stock wheel + Emax.

So consider this, the relocation of weight from the tire to the wheel and the overall package being lighter will be a doubly whammy.

Centralized weight has less rotational inertia. Lighter total weight has less rotational inertia.

A win win win, faster transitional left/right, less unsprung mass, better acceleration from both weight and centralization.

 

[Justdad]

Oh, and, the pair of new wheel and 200/60 tire is about 5 lbs lighter than stock wheel + Emax.

So consider this, the relocation of weight from the tire to the wheel and the overall package being lighter will be a doubly whammy.

Centralized weight has less rotational inertia. Lighter total weight has less rotational inertia.

A win win win, faster transitional left/right, less unsprung mass, better acceleration from both weight and centralization.

That wheel, tire and the way the bike looks very cool.

 

[Claviger]

Cobalt bits made short work of this, yay for having the right tool for the job. Wired it to the lower shock bolt so the clip won't go flying if it does come loose and stays in place for maintenance.

 

[Claviger]

Front axle was a huge concern for me because of the design, turns out, super easy to wire. Drilled pinch bolts can be used instead of wiring to the leg itself, but these are DLC coated Ti, and the heads are angled. There's zero chance of my cobalt bit getting through them lol, they just skate around on the dlc...

Some will be concerned with drilling the fork leg, I have utter confidence that a 2mm angled hole will not cause 1 iota of issues.

 

[Claviger]

The infamous self ejecting rocket 3 oil cap syndrome leads me to do this.

It'll need to be rewired each morning when I check the oil, but I'm ok with that for Boneville. At the site, I'll be doing top to bottom check of everything daily anyways, just 1 more thing.

Mufasa doesn't burn oil so it's not a big deal to not check for a while on street.

It's not a tech inspection required item, but it's a good idea item.

Honestly this will only matter if I have an catastrophic internal explosion; crank case is negative pressure on the bike so my oil cap gets sucked tighter as RPM rises instead of normal R3s which try and eject it resulting from windage (as some of you have found out on a drag strip).

 

[Claviger]

With that, I'm done drilling for the day. There are not further required wire items; however, I still need to wire the air filter items together and then to the bike so nothing can fly off at speed.

I plan to wire the oil filter in place and will probably wire the bar mount clamping bolts after final assembly.

Remaining items:
- Polish scratches out of screen so Justdad can see where he's going
- Sleeve fuel line and clamp fireproof hose in place.
- Fit new rear rotor.
- Fab gauge mounting bracket and get that insanity sorted.
- Some electrical items (minor).
- Clean the dirty ass bike and slather on some lemon pledge on all non-rider grip surfaces...(no, seriously, the silicon oil base of it will help salt removal after runs).
- Mount the 130/70 front tire.
- Bleed brakes.
- Install new throttle cable.
- Adjust clutch/throttle cable.
- Ride and refine tune/verify everything is safe and sorted for stupid fast mode.

So, all in, about a day of random ****e I'm going spread over the next couple of days to not injure my ridiculously fubar back.