Engine end driveshaft lube?

Koko3052

.040 Over
Joined
Jun 5, 2023
Messages
61
Location
Alberta Canada
Ride
'08 Rocket 3
I'm a newby to the rocket 3 & to Triumph in general, have been riding Harleys for near half a century. I recently purchased an '08 Classic that had no history from the seller. I did know enough to ask the seller when he had a new tire installed on the rear if the driveshaft splines were lubed.....he had no knowledge.
So the other day after a short ride I decided to change the oil in the bevel box. The drain & the filler plug were both very tight. I left it drain overnight as it was pretty dirty. The next day when I put in the drain plug I thought that I stripped the threads but actually broke the plug which led me to search with google & connected me to an online manual.While searching this manual it states that the motor end of the driveshaft doesn't need servicing. Not how can that be when I've gained enough info to know that at every rear tire change, the bevel box end of the driveshaft needs to be cleaned & lubed? To lube the engine end requires considerable work, which I will probably do this winter as I'm from Canada and we do have a bit of winter.😆
What is everyones opinion on that?
Thank you
 
I did that a couple of years ago when I changed the rear tire on my touring. When you pull the final drive gear box off and pull the drive shaft out, the u-joint will drop slightly near the engine. Use GOOD moly grease on the drive shaft splines and inside the wheel hub. It takes a bit of maneuvering to get the shaft back in to the u-joint, but it will go.

I just serviced the drive shaft on my Suzuki M50 and the gear box end of the shaft behind a grease seal was dry and rusty. Glad I looked at that. I'm not sure if the Rocket has that, but I'd check. If there is a seal and c-clip holding that in, you will need to get new ones if your take the old ones off.
I don't suppose the engine end of the shaft parts need servicing unless there's an obvious problem.
I did that a couple of years ago when I changed the rear tire on my touring. When you pull the final drive gear box off and pull the drive shaft out, the u-joint will drop slightly near the engine. Use GOOD moly grease on the drive shaft splines and inside the wheel hub. It takes a bit of maneuvering to get the shaft back in to the u-joint, but it will go.

I just serviced the drive shaft on my Suzuki M50 and the gear box end of the shaft behind a grease seal was dry and rusty. Glad I looked at that. I'm not sure if the Rocket has that, but I'd check. If there is a seal and c-clip holding that in, you will need to get new ones if your take the old ones off.
I don't suppose the engine end of the shaft parts need servicing unless there's an obvious problem.
My thinking is that if "there's an obvious problem", that you are too late for servicing/lubing. To lube that end is a whole bunch of work! That alone may drive me back to riding just my harleys. On them a tire change is JUST A TIRE CHANGE and repacking the Timken axle bearings, easy peasy!
 
My thinking is that if "there's an obvious problem", that you are too late for servicing/lubing. To lube that end is a whole bunch of work! That alone may drive me back to riding just my harleys. On them a tire change is JUST A TIRE CHANGE and repacking the Timken axle bearings, easy peasy!

On the Harley does the chain or belt wear out?
All bikes need maintenance if you like the bike you do the work if you don't like the bike you get another kind of bike.
 
I would disagree with that statement as when cleaning the box end I could push & pull the driveshaft, I'm guessing about an inch, but will measure it before putting it back together. Also the manual shows a splined shaft protruding from the engine. I think that this is a poor design on the engine end as I would think that having it fixed on that end would be a cheaper manufacturing option and just lengthen the box end shaft & coupler. From an after sales maintenance point for labor it would also be cheaper. I would assume that the engine end splines would "fret" as much as the other end.
That would be a poor design if the splines aren't bathed in oil behind a seal. This bike is an anomaly for sure. I find it hard to navigate in the digital service manual. Do you have a page number or reference picture of that splined shaft protruding from the engine?
 
That would be a poor design if the splines aren't bathed in oil behind a seal. This bike is an anomaly for sure. I find it hard to navigate in the digital service manual. Do you have a page number or reference picture of that splined shaft protruding from the engine?

I thought that it should have had oil but it does not i think that the yoke is tougher than the splines going into the final drive.
 
Well I will add to this post. I couldn't be comfortable with not knowing what condition the front splines & yoke were in so I removed the swingarm, not that much of an issue. The yoke & splines on the end end were like brand new & seemed to be lubed with just some light red grease, probably from the factory. This bike has 50+K on the clock.I just relubed that end with some light grease & put it back together. I probably won't look at that end again for at least a couple of rear tire changes.
I have to add that I LOVE the Rocket's rear brake caliper for being able to change pads without even loosening a bolt. Just two hair pins & an anchor pin.....a five minute job.👍
 
Well I will add to this post. I couldn't be comfortable with not knowing what condition the front splines & yoke were in so I removed the swingarm, not that much of an issue. The yoke & splines on the end end were like brand new & seemed to be lubed with just some light red grease, probably from the factory. This bike has 50+K on the clock.I just relubed that end with some light grease & put it back together. I probably won't look at that end again for at least a couple of rear tire changes.
I have to add that I LOVE the Rocket's rear brake caliper for being able to change pads without even loosening a bolt. Just two hair pins & an anchor pin.....a five minute job.👍
You have to use a moly type grease. Honda moly was the best. I believe 60% moly. The splines on the bevel box end of the shaft will wear very quickly if a moly lube is not used.
Markc
 
You have to use a moly type grease. Honda moly was the best. I believe 60% moly. The splines on the bevel box end of the shaft will wear very quickly if a moly lube is not used.
Markc
I did use a moly on the back end splines. I was referencing the engine end. If the grease that I saw was original it definitely wasn't moly.
 
I did use a moly on the back end splines. I was referencing the engine end. If the grease that I saw was original it definitely wasn't moly.
Just did my bevel box end on 2013 Roadster with 22000 miles on it. Splines were very dry and red, probably never lubed by previous owner. Didn't have time to remove the swingarm this time. Also worried for the gearbox end of the driveshaft. Did you happen to make any photos of that 50K old never serviced splines sir?
 
Just did my bevel box end on 2013 Roadster with 22000 miles on it. Splines were very dry and red, probably never lubed by previous owner. Didn't have time to remove the swingarm this time. Also worried for the gearbox end of the driveshaft. Did you happen to make any photos of that 50K old never serviced splines sir?
I think that I may have. Having computer issues currently, and somewhat of a dinosaur, but will try to get some posted in the days that come.
Yes the bevel box end of mine were the same, dry & red dust. Not a good indication that it was serviced regularly.
On a side note, a friend of mine recently purchased a 1978 Honda Goldwing and as it is also shaft driven I looked it over carefully and see that it has a grease nipple in the front of the bevel box about where the driveshaft splines would be. I haven’t delved deeper into that machine but you can bet that I will! The newer Goldwings need to be lubed just as the Rockets!
 
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