Electrical Gremlins Part 5: The Reckoning?

[dennisgsy]

i will try to explain with a code for transmission
first road test 1st then 2nd then 3rd then 4th
second time all good
third time 1st then 2nd then several bumps to 3rd then sets code and fail safes (limp mode stuck in 2nd)
it will start out in 2nd and stay in 2nd but if u stop and turn off ignition and back on it will not clear the code but it will reset the ecu so it will work and shift until it (ecu) see's the problem
the volt meter dropped to 9.16 volts that's pretty low

try again u might try the same but do a load drop by turning the lights on for 5 minutes.

I'm sorry but I couldn't understand what you meant by "several bumps" to 3rd "then sets code and fail safes (limp mode stuck in 2nd)" ?

I had started and stopped the engine a few times before a shot the video hence the lower voltage.

 

[TURBO200R4]

I'm sorry but I couldn't understand what you meant by "several bumps" to 3rd "then sets code and fail safes (limp mode stuck in 2nd)" ?

I had started and stopped the engine a few times before a shot the video hence the lower voltage.

sometimes when u turn ign off and then back on it will reset the way it works but does not clear codes.

i need to see the meter when it fails to start

 

[TURBO200R4]

I'm sorry but I couldn't understand what you meant by "several bumps" to 3rd "then sets code and fail safes (limp mode stuck in 2nd)" ?

I had started and stopped the engine a few times before a shot the video hence the lower voltage.

nobody has ever accused me of being able to explaining something real good. lol

 

[dennisgsy]

sometimes when u turn ign off and then back on it will reset the way it works but does not clear codes.

i need to see the meter when it fails to start

In the first video it shows the voltage drop (about 1 minute in). Does this help?

 

[TURBO200R4]

In the first video it shows the voltage drop (about 1 minute in). Does this help?

its hard to tell i don't see the voltage drop i expected this is where a scope would come in handy.
from what i see i think that the battery is not up to cranking the r3 (takes a very good battery)
if u jumper from a good battery i think it would work every time.
not enough to carve fix in stone.

 

[markc]

its hard to tell i don't see the voltage drop i expected this is where a scope would come in handy.
from what i see i think that the battery is not up to cranking the r3 (takes a very good battery)
if u jumper from a good battery i think it would work every time.
not enough to carve fix in stone.

I agree with turbo200r4. Looks like your battery is weak. should have a minimum of 12.4 volts.

 

[dennisgsy]

its hard to tell i don't see the voltage drop i expected this is where a scope would come in handy.
from what i see i think that the battery is not up to cranking the r3 (takes a very good battery)
if u jumper from a good battery i think it would work every time.
not enough to carve fix in stone.

Yes, everything now seems to point to a weak battery, despite having had it tested.

I had the battery on charge early in the week then took it off charge. Over the next 2 - 3 days the bike was starting first time every time. Today when the voltage had dropped to just over 12 volts it refused to start. The Tune ECU readout showed the Start Relay as activated and then apart from a brief click from the solenoid it wouldn't turn over. I then used jump leads from my car battery (which I tried previously) but with the voltmeter connected it showed very little change and still wouldn't start. I then started the car which pushed the voltage up to over 14 volts and the bike started immediately. I'm now thinking of buying a Lithium Battery, which I know was suggested earlier in this thread

Lithium batteries are not kept in stock where I live (Guernsey is a small island between the UK and France) so I will need to get one ordered on Monday. I'll post a further update to let you know the outcome of this saga. Thanks

 

[TURBO200R4]

U might want to put the volt meter on while running should b over 14
Now u may have posted that but I don't remember

 

[dennisgsy]

U might want to put the volt meter on while running should b over 14
Now u may have posted that but I don't remember

Yes it's over 14 v when it's running

 

[CrzystghndKC]

Yes, everything now seems to point to a weak battery, despite having had it tested.

I had the battery on charge early in the week then took it off charge. Over the next 2 - 3 days the bike was starting first time every time. Today when the voltage had dropped to just over 12 volts it refused to start. The Tune ECU readout showed the Start Relay as activated and then apart from a brief click from the solenoid it wouldn't turn over. I then used jump leads from my car battery (which I tried previously) but with the voltmeter connected it showed very little change and still wouldn't start. I then started the car which pushed the voltage up to over 14 volts and the bike started immediately. I'm now thinking of buying a Lithium Battery, which I know was suggested earlier in this thread

Lithium batteries are not kept in stock where I live (Guernsey is a small island between the UK and France) so I will need to get one ordered on Monday. I'll post a further update to let you know the outcome of this saga. Thanks

Make sure any lithium you buy has a charge management system or a compatible charger for lithium. A charger for lead acid my not charge past 90% full.