EwoutR3
.040 Over
Did you test the wires in the harness from ignition switch to main harness with an ohm meter?
Electrical Gremlin Strikes Again
- Thread starter Son_Of_Dog
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical
Kevin frazier
Widowmaker!
Somebody else can chime in but that 12.11 ain’t gonna cut it, but that’s just from my experience with decosse helping me before if I remember correctly, anyway whoever comes along to help they’ll want those values.
Kevin frazier
Widowmaker!
Those 2008 ingnition and wire harness pretty dang good on a touring. But as soon as you can get that decosse system it’s real cool and then you have a backup your original if and when that moment occurs. But first this gremlin got to be figured out, probably same gremlin from 2 months ago. Thing is with these rockets, when they kinda fix themselves oh boy it’s coming back eventually, Tripp’s chased a issue for 2 years to find out it was a coil. No biggie you’ll get it sorted.
Son_Of_Dog
Unfailing Millennial
Yes, they're all good now. The main power to the ignition switch (white wire) was a little toasty looking and didn't have a good connection, so I repaired it and replaced the ignition switch with a toggle switch for good measure.
I don't know how to charge it up any further, since that's all the trickle charger will give me. I guess the truck battery with jumper cables might get it charged a little more, since it puts out a little over 13v. Do you have any input on this?
Kevin frazier
Widowmaker!
A battery should go to 13 when charged and it’s gonna have to hold 12.7 .8 to fire 12.6 but I don’t think 12.11 gonna work, it’s probably not your charger to me it just sounds like that battery ain’t taking it. Maybe someone will chime in and say bull ****e that ain’t right, but it just sounds like a battery, like you brought it back to life 2 months ago but she’s barking and ain’t eating a charge now. Hope I’m wrong
EwoutR3
.040 Over
Easiest way is to connect the car battery to the bike's battery cables. Leave the bike's battery out.
Then you rule out a possibly faulty battery.
Then you rule out a possibly faulty battery.
FE_rex
Bob Wills is still the King
I second Kevin’s suggestion. 0.5 v is a lot of draw on a healthy battery. May want to disconnect headlight and see if there is another draw. If your battery discharged past 10v, you may bring it back, but it usually never be really “back” for challenging applications (i.e. diesel trucks and Rockets)
Take the battery out and go to a battery supplier, they can load test your battery and determine wether good or not, think this is the only real way to know.
Son_Of_Dog
Unfailing Millennial
I'm about 90% sure that I've already attempted this, but I did leave the bike battery in it.
As a side note, the last time I rode it I noticed that the neutral LED on the dash would come on in second gear when I was going about 45mph and up. It would turn off as soon as the RPM's dropped when I shifted to 3rd. I figured this was because the bike is due for an oil change and the gear position sensor is maybe dirty? I'm not sure.
Additional information: I had a aftermarket horn wired in incorrectly. I had a relay wired that activated on the horn button, but the "high voltage" line that ran from the battery through the relay went back to ground through the horn button wiring. I have since corrected this by giving the horns their own wires straight to the positive and negative on the battery, that are activated by the relay that is wired to the horn button.
EwoutR3
.040 Over
That could explain the bit toasted white wire, and maybe some more toasty wires... in my MG I had a short circuit with the cigarette lighter lamp. Cause a LOT of troubles in the entire wiring behind the dash.
Maybe a good idea to check the wiring from horn switch to main harness.
Maybe a good idea to check the wiring from horn switch to main harness.
