Eastern Beaver headlight relay install in less than 2 hours

yeah .... even assembling your does not take much more than that, probably spend most of the fitting time removeig covers and lifting Tank etc
Tony , Cardinal probabably made his own the same way I do whereby you cut and splice in to the existing wiring harnes, this method also means your parking lights are not effected, it may pay to find and buy a spare relay for the EB kit as they are not readily available as the common Narva ones I use are at every auto shop and even a small outback servo probably stocks them
 
High Beam Before and After
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this proves a point I argued with another member some time ago about Triumphs fix being onlky a bandaid which shifts a load to the Dipper switch and still causes more resisance than needed to be.
The Triumph older system put the power thru igntion switch, starter relay and dipper switch before allowing the power to get to headlights
The new post 2010 Roadster's had it come thru the starter relay and dipper switch before getting to lights
The the EB or home made setup takes power dierectly from battery thru relay to lights hence the brighter lights
 
One of the easiest jobs and still took you 2 hrs??????:eek::eek::eek::D
Best to take your time with anything to do with electrics, you need to get it right. It's true what my dad told me when I was having problems with Lucas the Prince of Darkness on my first TR6. All things electrical including wire, relays, Zener diods, coils even drills and grinders are designed to contain and enclose smoke and if you let the smoke out it's fu#ked. I've found this to be true on every occasion. Don't let the smoke out or you'll be buying some new bits.
 
Het Hanso, I want to do my own by-pass. I want to keep my parking lights. Do you have parts list and procedure with pictures ?
I am actually in the middle of taking pictures of the steps to make a ign switch bypass relay harness up stay tuned, I currently making two of them one for a member I'm Canada and another for an Aussie's Roadster, I will be taking as many pictures of the install on the Roadster.

Just another point to make also is that the Canadain, The other Aussie and myself all bought a FZ1 Fuzeblock but upon closer inspection and investigation I have found it is not capable of handling the current flow of Stebel Nautalus Air horns (18 - 20 amps) let alone the current drawn by your lights with exception of maybe the J W Speaker type LED headlights but I would have to check, the FZ1 Fuzeblock is only designed to cope with 10 amps or less so heat grips and other accessories should all be safe with it
 
yeah .... even assembling your does not take much more than that, probably spend most of the fitting time removeig covers and lifting Tank etc
Tony , Cardinal probabably made his own the same way I do whereby you cut and splice in to the existing wiring harnes, this method also means your parking lights are not effected, it may pay to find and buy a spare relay for the EB kit as they are not readily available as the common Narva ones I use are at every auto shop and even a small outback servo probably stocks them
I cut NO triumph wiring, I used crimp terminals to plug into factory plugs. As far as relays failing- if the low beam failed I would simply swap relays till I could replace tge failed relay. No big deal really.
 
I should clarify my last post when I say I cut and splice into the Triumph wiring I only cut/splice in to the headlight sub harness not in to the main harness
 
I didnt even cut the sub harness. Just pulled the plug and used crimp terminals as it is now a low current draw.
 
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