Damaged crankcase with pictures -- FIXED

I haven't been following this post but as I look at it there doesn't seem to be an easy fix. I haven't looked at my bike to see if there are other points you could bracket to, but I might be looking to fabricate something the would go under the engine tying to the floorboard support rods. Oil drain plugs might be obscured.

Here's an idea....Could you buy a Jack-Be-Quick bracket and then fabricate forward with an addon to that. A good welding shop could fabricate a bracket you could fasten the sidestand to near the same location and then weld it to the Jack-Be-Quick bracket. That should be a solid mount.

Could you square off the broken surfaces on the engine, have some threaded aluminum bushings made, use the remaining threads to bold the bushing in place while a knowledgeable welder welds them back on the case? The casting does look rather porous and crappy.
 
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Does your bike have this lug with an 8mm hole ? Any half decent fabricator will modify almost any sidestand to bolt on to here perfectly ! there may be some jiggery pokery needed here and there, but I am pretty confident I could fabricate a bracket and sprung sidestand that would look like it's meant to be there if I was in a similar situation ! . was in my cave today with your problem in my head , so took a look with regards to how I would go about sorting it had it happened to me . In fact I spent so long peruseing the problem , I never got time to change the chain and sprockets on my CBR xx
 
Drill deeper, just short of breaking through to the inside. Re-tap with a plug tap followed by a bottoming tap. Then use permanent thread lock on good studs threaded into the holes. Drill out the threads of the broken off pieces and epoxy them over the studs to restore the original clamping surface.

If you can get 2 times the stud diameter engaged in good internal threads you should be okay. These bosses are in tension when the side stand is used. Epoxy alone will leave you laying on your side on the ground with your bike on top your leg. Don't bother trying it.

Welding would be a last resort before fitting replacement cases. At that point you have nothing to lose by having a qualified welder try a repair. If he or she believes the repair is successful you save the cost of cases. The fix may not be as strong as the original but may be good enough if you don't stand on the bike on the side stand down. If they say "Not happy with how this went." Trust them and get different cases.

Fabricating a new bracket might be possible too. Remember that the original is bolted on with 4 bolts. Running a steel strap from case front to back attached at each end with one 8mm bolt will leave your bike rocking in the smallest of breezes. At the least you will need an angle piece to have enough strength so that it doesn't twist too much and you will need four bolting points that are not on the same horizontal line.

Good luck
 

The side stand is held on with 3 bolts which go into 3 holes; the two which have broken and are next to each other and the hole above the broken casting on the right. The hole above the broken casting on the left is just there and is not used for the side stand support.

The threads of the two holes which broke do continue down the holes for maybe another 2-3 mm. The threads of the broken pieces are fine and the bolts still go through the broken pieces and into the holes in the casing just fine.

Using your idea, what would you think about tapping into the casing a little bit more (how much?) to get more depth to the hole, thread a similar size rod into the hole with permanent loctite while going through the broken pieces which have a metal epoxy on them to attach them to the surrounding casing to help spread the load. A nut could be used to help hold the broken pieces against the casing. Once everything has set for say 48-72 hours, remove the nuts from the rods, place the bracket over the rods and trim the rods to the appropriate length. Affix nuts to the rods to hold on the bracket and it is done.

Would something like this work? How much deeper would I need to go with the tap? Anyone have an idea of how much material might be there before breaking through the casing? In doing this, what is the chance of messing up the threads that are already there and making another problem?

Sorry for all of the questions. This outside my range of experience.

Thank you everyone for all of these suggestions. I cannot express enough what your thoughts and ideas have meant to me.
 
Do you know how thick the casing is? What happens if you drill all the way through? Even if you don't go all the way through, then you will still be weakening the case so that if/when it breaks again you may end up with a gaping hole in the case.

IMHO you will be MUCH better off trying to get something fabricated that mounts on the frame as suggested above.
 
For what a new/used bike costs state-side I'd be buying and parting out a second bike and scavenging the case.
 
Remember and this is just my opinion. You can drill and tap further or use a thread insert. There is all kinds of ways to cobble it if your trading it in. Other then that or coming out and seeing it tipped over because the repair gave out. What would make you feel/have that warm and fuzzy feeling its your bike !! If your that worried well put the stand down and back into it from the right side with a truck. Your deductible and your done new bike !!!!
 
well might as well give my opinion
first i would check with warp and find out what is on the inside of where it is broken and if there is enough space for a big washer and a nut i would (carefully) drill through and finish tapping all the way through and then put it together with jb weld and two nuts on the inside. the jb weld will keep it from leaking.
just for info
some one put longer bolts on a trans mount and broke through the case on the inside
i got the correct bolts put jb weld in the holes and tighten it up. it stopped the leak and i had to change the mount later and the bolts came out nice
 
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