Cold starting

Ruzzle said:
Bit odd, this talk about heating up the oil in the sump, there's not supposed to be much oil in the sump. You oughta be heating the oil tank.....:?:
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Funny you mention that because one of the things I didn't mention was that I bought a magnetic heater designed for car sumps. Two things wrong with that. One, as you mention, that is not where the oil is, or at least it's not supposed to be. Two, for some peculiar reason the magnet wouldn't stick

I did try attaching it to the oil tank but it turned out that simply heating the oil was not enough, at least not in my case. I ended up using a small fan heater directed at the engine block on the oil tank side and that seemed to do the trick.

At the end of the day, the conclusion is that heat is not the solution. As mentioned previously, it only works if you have access to a heat source which, parked at the local watering hole, is usually not an option.
 
warp9.9 said:
right Ruzz unless your oil non return valve is toast!!!!!
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Mine has never worked! Last year I removed the oil tank as there was a very slight leak from underneath. Cleaned out a load of silicone the dealer had jammed in there to contain a small leak after I first bought the bike. (Cleaning out that crap took longer than the whole job). Replaced the o-rings etc. and put it all back together again. A year later, no leaks - but the dam return valve still doesn't work! Misguidedly, I thought putting in new o-rings would solve the problem. Anyway, my friend's r3 always has oil in the tank from cold; mine never has - doesn't seem to be a problem as I run the bike for a minute or two and there's always oil by then on the dipstick --
 

DC the oil non return valve is on the bottom of the engine You have to remove the sump. another problem tht can cause the oil leak down is the sump gasket is not properly aligned when put on this lets the oil leak down pretty quickly from the drian line in the area of the oil plug(the long one with the O-ring on it) Ruzzle was reffering to.
 
It's the long one under the oil tank that attaches to the lower crankcase, right? I put on new o-rings, I believe two on the non return and one on the short one toward the front of the motor. I was very careful to align it correctly when I re-installed the oil tank. No leaks, but oil only stays in the tank when running -- does this make sense? and thanks for your input!
 
We're not talking about the O-rings that seal the oil tank tubes to the crankcase, but the O-ring on the main drain plug in the sump.......
 

It makes sense replacing them if they leak and the forward one goes to the tank drain the rear is to the the non return valve. The one Ruzzle was reffering to is the tank drain plug that goes into the bottom front left of the oil sump pan You pull it everytime you change the oil. And actually the non return valve has a O-ring on it also. I will take some pictures later tonight and peice together a discriptive view to clearify. The ones up top that you changed have nothing to do with the oil leak down to the sump just they just stop the tank from leaking on the top of the tranny right under the tank and drifting to the back of the engine freaking people out because they think they have blown a head gasket.
 
I think that the original suggestion here was more about pre-heating the engine oil prior to start-up. If ya wanna do that, you gotta heat the oil in the oil tank, 'cos that's where the oil pressure pump draws from.... not from the sump.
 
Ruzzle said:
I think that the original suggestion here was more about pre-heating the engine oil prior to start-up. If ya wanna do that, you gotta heat the oil in the oil tank, 'cos that's where the oil pressure pump draws from.... not from the sump.
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Righty Ruzz but who cares it tech stuff not Politicing Religious Crap
 

It's remnant "surplus to requirements" British (ghost of Lucas) electronics. How they ever won the "Battle of Britain" without their Spitfires falling out of the air from electrical problems... is still a mystery to me....
 
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