clutch issue

[Gerald]

If my soon to be 75 year old feeble mind is correct, I believe you do add a disk when leaving out the judder spring and washer..... just sayin......

Don't do that, please.

 

[Chariot]

If my soon to be 75 year old feeble mind is correct, I believe you do add a disk when leaving out the judder spring and washer..... just sayin......

You are almost catching up with me age wise

 

[Chariot]

My friend the stock fibers have one with a larger internal diameter so the spring and washer can sit inside it.
This is the innermost fiber.
However when you replace the stock fibers with say MTC ones, they are all the same so there is no room for the spring and washer anymore they are not required then.
(If you do cram them in then the clutch will be jammed).
There is the same amount of fibers as stock.
So you wouldn't add a disk, more replace that OEM one with the larger internal diameter.

Can't see on Carpenters website any way to order springs from the U.K I have tried to get in touch on Face Book. Hope they will get back to me on Monday. Are they quite quick at sending spares? Have you found the clutch stronger with this mod ?

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Can't see on Carpenters website any way to order springs from the U.K I have tried to get in touch on Face Book. Hope they will get back to me on Monday. Are they quite quick at sending spares? Have you found the clutch stronger with this mod ?

They don't have them individually on the website, but if you look at the packages they do for the Rocket, clutch springs are included.
If you phone them they will hook you up.

When I put the Stroker kit in my otherwise stock engine, it made more torque at 2000rpm than the standard Rocket III or newer Rocket 3 do at peak. Anything over 50% throttle and the clutch slipped.

Phoned Erik in Carpenters and I had a set of their springs the next working day (I'm in Ireland - sent Friday from USA, arrived Monday in Ireland).
These are the strongest springs I've heard of for the Rocket.
They still hold up now to my 2.5L Supercharged Carpenter Stroker anyway....

Oh and if you're putting pressure on your clutch, best replace the spring tower bolts too with 50mm long ones, because;

 

[Chariot]

They don't have them individually on the website, but if you look at the packages they do for the Rocket, clutch springs are included.
If you phone them they will hook you up.

When I put the Stroker kit in my otherwise stock engine, it made more torque at 2000rpm than the standard Rocket III or newer Rocket 3 do at peak. Anything over 50% throttle and the clutch slipped.

Phoned Erik in Carpenters and I had a set of their springs the next working day (I'm in Ireland - sent Friday from USA, arrived Monday in Ireland).
These are the strongest springs I've heard of for the Rocket.
They still hold up now to my 2.5L Supercharged Carpenter Stroker anyway....

Oh and if you're putting pressure on your clutch, best replace the spring tower bolts too with 50mm long ones, because;

Thanks very much for the help and advice. I will phone them this afternoon.

 

[Chariot]

They don't have them individually on the website, but if you look at the packages they do for the Rocket, clutch springs are included.
If you phone them they will hook you up.

When I put the Stroker kit in my otherwise stock engine, it made more torque at 2000rpm than the standard Rocket III or newer Rocket 3 do at peak. Anything over 50% throttle and the clutch slipped.

Phoned Erik in Carpenters and I had a set of their springs the next working day (I'm in Ireland - sent Friday from USA, arrived Monday in Ireland).
These are the strongest springs I've heard of for the Rocket.
They still hold up now to my 2.5L Supercharged Carpenter Stroker anyway....

Oh and if you're putting pressure on your clutch, best replace the spring tower bolts too with 50mm long ones, because;

I see you used cap screws, i can only get button head allen screws in 10.9. Will they be okay? I see what you mean about the triumph spring sleeved flanged nuts. They look really weak. Cheers Kenny

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

I see you used cap screws, i can only get button head allen screws in 10.9. Will they be okay? I see what you mean about the triumph spring sleeved flanged nuts. They look really weak. Cheers Kenny

I use hex head bolts, same as the OEMs.
Why do you want 10.9s?

I don't understand the bit in bold at all!

 

[Chariot]

I use hex head bolts, same as the OEMs.
Why do you want 10.9s?

I don't understand the bit in bold at all!

Sorry about that. Got a bit confused thought that the flange sleeves were threaded on to the stud - like the old British bikes.
I'll get new regular bolts.

 

[Chariot]

My son came up from Bristol on Sunday and fitted the new clutch for me. I ended up using he original Triumph bolts with the captive washers but unfortunately told my son to add 20x6x1.5 Washers to preload the springs Duh! I felt a right dip**** when the clutch dragged. Springs were coil bound and couldn't release clutch properly. Being a good natured lad he stripped the clutch again and removed washers. By this time he was getting really slick at the job as this was the third time he had done it. Didn't remove radiator and we used Permatex no.3 to hold the gasket in place. Trickiest bit seems to be locating the lifter shaft.

 

[Mongler07]

Ebc clutch springs do indeed suck big time.
All this nonsense about extra load with washers or an extra plate is donkey pies.
I've been down this road a few times and every time I fix the problem it was either from having the wrong order of the stack in the basket or aftermarket trash or someone did not presoak the friction plates.
My advice is to use stock components or quality aftermarket like carpenter.
Are you telling me you changed out a transmission gear to fix a slipping clutch?
I am at a loss for words here of how crazy this has gotten.
Sorry you had or are having so many issues.