Clutch bearing collapse

I will soon be removing my clutch for a detent spring replacement. What is the factory torque setting for the clutch cover spring bolts?
 

It was warp9.9's idea originally I think he might have broken his clutch hub towers with too many horses

This is the spec I used. And bolt them down criss cross a little at a time to final torque of 10nm and be accurate with that.




Yes the 2 sump drain strainers are held down by 3 bolts each, you can clean and reuse them with medium strength thread locker.

Oh yes the sump gasket you might buy that from triumph too.
 
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Hey mate honestly if you or anybody else who's helped me out here are over in Thailand give me a shout for a frosty beer
 
Hey mate honestly if you or anybody else who's helped me out here are over in Thailand give me a shout for a frosty beer
Will do - as long as it's not Corona!.

For the bolt/washer thing - I bought 5mm ID washers and reamed them open to a close 6mm hole. M6 standard holes allow (for my taste) a bit too much wiggle.

And they are standard thread M6 ISO-C bolts - Which is a 1mm pitch.
 
 

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Don't be fooled into using stainless bolts they are not typically high tensile unless forged and marked Gr8.8 or higher Gr 316 are far better than Gr304 - better to use high tensile carbon steel bolts if you are going to replace them and they will need to be M6 x 1mm ISO std. Gr: 8.8 or better
 
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Well I left myself wide open to that! Lol the offer still stands as long as I'm around that is,and as long as I get my bike fixed in time I will depart this planet a happy man
 
I'm going to be cringing everytime I let that clutch go using anything less... Ignorance is bliss till it blows up in your
 
So as not to be wasteful I ground the bolt heads of then drilled the washers to a close tolerance fit and used them on the new bolts.