Clutch bearing collapse

R-III-R Turbo · Jan 29, 2020

bebsy said:
Sorry to drop this on you but I'm looking at the plunger the iner part of the roller cage will have to be pressed off surely it should just be a snug fit

Luckily I never had an issue with the burnt/worn lifter shaft face, but warp9.9 is well experienced with it.

But that bearing's inner and outer races should just slide out with little resistance. I'd say the busted bearing might have caused the races to spin instead of stay static, and have become bonded through friction to the pullrod/lifter piece shank and pressure plate bore.
Pullrod and plate might be salvageable with a cleanup job, or they could end up sloppy fit on bearing and need replacement.

BTW I'm home now, that bearing is 17x35x8mm (16003) deep groove.

Also for your info, these are the generations of pullrod/lifter piece from our engines;

Also the pressure plate up to engine # 249177 (needle bearing);

And the modern one (engine # >249178) that goes with ball bearing, T1170061;

Jvheli · Jan 29, 2020

I’d say also, inspect all the clutch components. Anything close, change it out. The clutch is a pita on the Rocket. Do it once and right.

warp9.9 · Jan 29, 2020

bebsy said:
Cheers Warp

It's not what I wanted to here lol but I know your right, I will get the outer part of the bearing pressed out tmrw, last thing I want is breaking it down again I got caught out yesterday 4hrs into a run

Thanks for the advice

Also from the changes alone in the lifter piece head design the problems your lifter piece added to to equation will be gone. The larger gead does not wander around in the liftershaft as much and there is more running edge.
Note your style on the right new head style on the left. I have a though as ti what happened to yours after viewing the parts you've posted. But its just a opinion I'm not a expert or engineer heck I'm not even employed unless you count the wifey slave driving me

Tripps · Jan 29, 2020

warp9.9 said:
. But its just a opinion I'm not a expert or engineer heck I'm not even employed unless you count the wifey slave driving me

The experts and engineers had their chance.

bebsy · Jan 30, 2020

warp9.9 said:
Also from the changes alone in the lifter piece head design the problems your lifter piece added to to equation will be gone. The larger gead does not wander around in the liftershaft as much and there is more running edge.
Note your style on the right new head style on the left. I have a though as ti what happened to yours after viewing the parts you've posted. But its just a opinion I'm not a expert or engineer heck I'm not even employed unless you count the wifey slave driving me

Hello Warp

The pressure plate is fine the outer bearing came out easily as for the inner ring that was still attached to the plunger was another story in the pic you will see a high spot when it was removed, I have removed the clutch plates to clean what is best thing for that? And noticed the chain drive for the water pump has quite a lot of slack in it is that normal? sorry to go off line but I'm just Tring to scurry what parts I need to order I'm already suffering withdrawals I need to get out and ride

warp9.9 said:
It will come out fairly easy. Either a punch, or grind the race so it splits. Or if you run a weld bead on the inside of the outer race when it cools it will shrink and fall right out. Pay attention to the torque specifications on the spring bolts they break easily.

bebsy · Jan 30, 2020

R-III-R Turbo said:
I had this happen too. Well I heard the bearing whine in time to fix it before it collapsed.

[/QUOTE

I attributed the bearing wear to unevenly torqued pressure plate bolts. This seemed to cause a tight spot in the bearing, but this was with a hydraulic clutch where the pullrod is held static rather than rattle around like the OEM Triumph one for the cable clutch.

Anywhoo your manual is out of date and world of Triumph parts fiche uses the old diagram, but it lists both the new and old parts.
You see the 04/05 bikes has a different pullrod, needle bearing and pressure plate.
Newer bikes got a ball bearing and matching pullrod and pressure plate.

You want bearing T1170067.
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And wavy washer #3. You don't need washers 19 and 27, they are for the old setup.

You can buy the bearing locally if you have the dims, even a sealed / greased for life one will do just pop the plastic side gaskets off.

Cheers for the info much appreciated

I see there is only 1 lifter arm listed I take it that suits all, they got a cheek charging the same price for the earlier parts which are known to be a poor setup you'd be afraid to give them away.

R-III-R Turbo · Jan 30, 2020

Yeah that's right just one lifter shaft T1170041.
They still supply the old parts because if you have an 04/05 bike (engine # < 249178) and just need 1 part..

Your pullrod/lifter piece/plunger is the superseded one, so you should get T1172023 also.

Plus bearing T1170067 and wavy washer T3550380 as before.

There's also a load of other bits you could do to update/improve while you're in there (e.g. cam chain guides, possibly chain and sprockets, clutch fibers & springs, samco hoses, and so on), but right now they're not the immediate requirement.

I would highly recommend an oil and filter change though, plus dropping the sump pan to clear it, primarily the strainers on the sump drain bungs, for bits of metal off your collapsed bearing.

barbagris · Jan 30, 2020

warp9.9 said:
Pay attention to the torque specifications on the spring bolts they break easily.

@bebsy
After talking to @warp9.9 and @R-III-R Turbo - I went for the longer bolt solution they recommended too.
I'm not at home so cannot remember the spec's - But whilst inside - imo it makes simple sense to do it.
It's only 5 bolts and washers for added peace of mind.

bebsy · Jan 30, 2020

R-III-R Turbo said:
Yeah that's right just one lifter shaft T1170041.
They still supply the old parts because if you have an 04/05 bike (engine # < 249178) and just need 1 part..

Your pullrod/lifter piece/plunger is the superseded one, so you should get T1172023 also.

Plus bearing T1170067 and wavy washer T3550380 as before.

There's also a load of other bits you could do to update/improve while you're in there (e.g. cam chain guides, possibly chain and sprockets, clutch fibers & springs, samco hoses, and so on), but right now they're not the immediate requirement.

I would highly recommend an oil and filter change though, plus dropping the sump pan to clear it, primarily the strainers on the sump drain bungs, for bits of metal off your collapsed bearing.

That's brilliant mate

I'm just making a list now thanks for mentioning the sump pan does that bolt clean off? Luckily I have all 10 bearings the cage holds 10 that was a major relief as for the the wavy washer well hopefully it's bathing in the sump, it's a pisser really I just done the oil change would filtering it through and replacing it be OKi remember pulling the starter out on a freshly paved back yard and the whole 5ltrs ooozed through my fingers I was like a slippery eel didn't expect that lol

bebsy · Jan 30, 2020

barbagris said:
@bebsy
After talking to @warp9.9 and @R-III-R Turbo - I went for the longer bolt solution they recommended too.
I'm not at home so cannot remember the spec's - But whilst inside - imo it makes simple sense to do it.
It's only 5 bolts and washers for added peace of mind.

I'll go with that I've heard they are abit on the weak side, I am abit surprised some of the internal components are of low grade steel still wouldn't change it for the world.

Thanks again

Clutch bearing collapse

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