Brake bleeder recommendation

albertaduke said:

thanks will get some in stainless steel if possible.

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RockOn said:

Expensive, 15 bucks each plus shipping if I read it right for SB8125: Stainless Steel Bleeders, Page 2

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albertaduke said:

thanks will get some in stainless steel if possible.

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RockOn said:

Expensive, 15 bucks each plus shipping if I read it right for SB8125: Stainless Steel Bleeders, Page 2

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EasTexRIII said:

Perspective: I pay +$15 each for water bottles on my bicycle

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RockOn said:

Expensive, 15 bucks each plus shipping if I read it right for SB8125: Stainless Steel Bleeders, Page 2

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Joesmoe said:

I would like someone @Ishrub ??? to post the real deal(s) here.

I ordered from the early post, and if that's wrong it doesn't belong here and I'll clean up the thread.

Thank you.

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Ishrub said:

So were they correct fitment? I Imagine you can use short or long but the long is specified for all modern Triumphs besides the 955 Tiger as I suppose shorter ones are less exposed offroad. I doubt they have updated the parts listing since the range of 800 and 1200 Tigers came out. Same for ABS as There must be more than required like their listing details for the BMWs.

Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder
Motorcycle Application Chart

Triumph
Front Brakes / Rear Brakes / Clutch *
Early Models
SB3824 / SB3824 / * *
Late Models
SB8125L / SB8125L / * *
'05 Tiger 955
SB8125 / SB8125

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1olbull said:

Glad you inquired, Ish as I had forgotten to respond.
They are quite a bit longer in size, but they and OEM the rubber caps fit perfectly.
I even have a spare now . . .

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Ishrub said:

Thanks, SB8125LL , that may be the 'LL' rather than 'L' meaning extra long.

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Ishrub said:

I have figured it out the single 'L' is for long nipple, the 'LL' is for Long nipple AND long stem from thread to hex nut. As these are fairly thin walled that may increase possibility of shearing it with a knock and if it gets a little seized or over tightened.

I read a a great review that said YOU MUST spray a little WD40 in the nipple after use and MUST recap with the rubber cap. Otherwise they quickly corrode inside due to the hygroscopic effect of brake fluid. Once jammed or seized they may still turn a quarter thread but nothing will emerge when brake pumped. If corrosion is bad they will seize in threads and due to thin walls will easily shear, same with over tightening without any corrosion. Then it is Easy Out time.

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