BOARDS ON MY ROADSTER - FINALLY!

1olbull said:

Thanks for jumping in, Hans!
@nox273 did TWO swaps in 2012. First he went with Standard rails and pegs and later to Classic rails with Boards.
The pix I put up were of his Classic install. This is a pix of his Standard install.

My other set of rails and boards look to be the same rails as Standard with aftermarket boards installed in place of the pegs.

When @cadconversions did his swap, he also stated he purchased the Classic set up that I eventually bought from him.

Am I confused somewhere? Please straighten me out . . . if possible.

Click to expand...

the lower picture is the Rivco board and shifter conversion

HansO said:

Steve the pictures you show are right yours which is the same as mine attach to the back half whilst the Classic attached to front and if you look really carefully his boards do not have quite as much angle and they lower, it is true Classic boards are identical to Std conversion boards but on a different rail, wait till you park next to a real Classic you will see the difference

Click to expand...

Thanks for the input.
Then are you saying the Standard used two different rail sets?
One for pegs and another for boards?

Yep Steve you have the floor boards on standard rail system. Also it looks like you have the standard brake pedal not the Classic that would come with the kit. And yes the rails on the classic are lower and the boards are not as angled as the standards.

1olbull said:

To me, those in your pix look to be the same as mine. My right side board is about 10½ inches off the ground at its rear (bike balanced upright). What be yours?

Yes, the shift side does have a heel and toe, which I HATE!
Since I never use my heel to shift and it is always in the way, reduces available foot room and gets occasionally bumped out of gear, I plan to cut it off very soon.

Now I have found an interesting discrepancy! Back in 2012 Aussie called @nox273 installed Classic boards to his R3R.
Looking back at his pix the shift arm and linkage were different. His linkage attached forward of the pivot.

My shift arm is shaped differently and the linkage attaches rearward of the pivot.

Both boards angle upwards and appear to be from a Classic model.
Any ideas about the differences in the shift arm and linkage?

Click to expand...

@1olbull what is the measurement in the front?
My Classic boards with the 240/55 rear 150/80 front and the forks shortened in length by about 1/2 inch measure 10.5 rear and 12.5 front on the right side. I think my front end will be close to yours since you have the smaller tire and my suspension is lowered in the front 1/2 inch. This is free standing with just the bikes static sag. Which I do not have half the front sag as the normal rockets I hated the front diving every time I hit the brakes or entered a curve so mine was removed.
Also so you know the Classic heel and toe shifter has the linkage in the front. And a much larger Brake pedal. I will go take pictures of mine up close if you want.

But here it is


Here is the same side but notice the angle of the rail behind the floor board compared to yours see how much steeper yours is.



here is yours



See the difference in the rail at the heal of the floor board?
Oh and your right the standard and Classic models have different rails.
Hope this helps bud
Oh an dyes that is the Utopia back rest

1olbull said:

Thanks, @warp9.9 !!!
The front of my right side board is about 14½" from the ground when upright and balanced.
I do now see that rail rise difference! Thanks for pointing that out.
So then: (correct me if I be wrong)
1) There are special board rails for the Standard, different than those for the OEM pegs.
2) The Standard board rails are higher off the ground than are the rails of the Classic.
3) The Classic shift linkage connects forward of the pivot.
4) The Standard shift linkage connects rearward of the pivot.
BTW - I do have the large brake pedal. I just opted for the smaller one.

Click to expand...

Correct I also thought about using the smaller brake pedal but was worried about missing it from being used to the large one after 70,000 miles. That and I figured I would keep both bikes the same so it was not confusing to the ole Polock

You stead looks great but I think you need to find someone to make a nice heat shield to cover the pipe between the header and the can. Just for cosmetics to finish it off nicely.

warp9.9 said:

Correct I also thought about using the smaller brake pedal but was worried about missing it from being used to the large one after 70,000 miles. That and I figured I would keep both bikes the same so it was not confusing to the ole Polock

You stead looks great but I think you need to find someone to make a nice heat shield to cover the pipe between the header and the can. Just for cosmetics to finish it off nicely.

Click to expand...

Cool Beans! I think I now finally understand.
I find that using my engine guard pads to rest my toe while my heel sits on the boards to be the most comfy position for me.
The large rear brake pad interferes with a quick transition to the rear brake and with this position, so I 86'd it!
This "cosmetics" change you suggest wouldn't have to do with your obvious bias toward the Carp Brute would it???

1olbull said:

This "cosmetics" change you suggest wouldn't have to do with your obvious bias toward the Carp Brute would it???

Click to expand...

No your bike/pipe/header look good but it looks like you forgot to put a shield on covering where the pipe and can joins together. Just pure cosmetics. I suppose you could hang a bunch of butt wax around her like tassels on a
Indian which will take the pipe out of view

Oh and if it weren't for Peter making the shields for me I would be dealing with the unfinished look and cheap heat shields like I had

warp9.9 said:

No your bike/pipe/header look good but it looks like you forgot to put a shield on covering where the pipe and can joins together. Just pure cosmetics. I suppose you could hang a bunch of butt wax around her like tassels on a
Indian which will take the pipe out of view

Oh and if it weren't for Peter making the shields for me I would be dealing with the unfinished look and cheap heat shields like I had

Click to expand...

OK, I now see what you refer to; covering up the welds and mounting clamp on the connector between header and can.
I had to have that connector re-welded in order to get them up and in tighter, because for some unknown reason, they dragged on the pavement!
Can you believe THAT???
Where the heck is that huge Limey when I need him???

1olbull said:

OK, I now see what you refer to; covering up the welds and mounting clamp on the connector between header and can.
I had to have that connector re-welded in order to get them up and in tighter, because for some unknown reason, they dragged on the pavement!
Can you believe THAT???
Where the heck is that huge Limey when I need him???

Click to expand...

yep and cover the O2 sensor also. Like I said just for cosmetics.

1olbull said:

Well I have finished the classic board swap!
Thanks @cadconversions.

Click to expand...

Higher pegrail = good. That dreaded left hand front corner would be about 2 inch's higher I'm thinking. Been thinking about getting a set of standard pegrails myself and grafting the Roadster pegs onto them back in the Roadster position to stop that grinding noise that makes Julie a bit twitchy.