Blowing in the wind - the need for a revised kickstand

Of course the angle will change as you cut off more to match the new lean of the bike, but I'm thinking that grinding it according to the original angle will be close enough.
 
Journeyman28778 said:
Of course the angle will change as you cut off more to match the new lean of the bike, but I'm thinking that grinding it according to the original angle will be close enough.
Click to expand...
Yes, the angle will change along the pad. I'm thinking along 3/16" at the end of foot to 1/8" inside. Or is my dyslexia getting it backwards? I'm surprised anyone hasn't done this.
 
stingray said:
Yes, the angle will change along the pad. I'm thinking along 3/16" at the end of foot to 1/8" inside. Or is my dyslexia getting it backwards? I'm surprised anyone hasn't done this.
Click to expand...
Remove a smidge more off the outside edge, but I don't think it's that critical if you follow the original angle. Someone here with some mad geometry skills could tell us.
 
Journeyman28778 said:
Of course the angle will change as you cut off more to match the new lean of the bike, but I'm thinking that grinding it according to the original angle will be close enough.
Click to expand...
Seems like it would put more pressure on the outside of the foot if cut at the same angle as stock. Being it is cast aluminum I'd rather the most contact be towards the beefier inside of the stand.
 
I would find a used kickstand from a parts recycler and take it to a welding shop and have them cut it put a slight Bend in it to allow the bike to lean over more and then reweld it
 
Rather than shortening the stand, I would raise the rear height of the bike.

This would also have the advantage of riding slightly downhill, thus saving fuel and increasing acceleration.
 
It might be hard to find a salvage one on a wrecked new model bike. In the meantime I'll just shave 1/8" off at a time increasing the lean angle. Looking at it, it has pretty complex angles for such a simple thing. Maybe more off the "rear" inside to maintain the proper lean. As it is cut this angle changes. The trick is dealing with this brittle cast aluminum piece. Why so upright? Bikes are tipping over, as better than increased lean angle? Why is the design so different? How much side load before failure? Purely for looks???

I need to go by my good old friend with the cnc mill and see how he's a doing during this covik hack hack recovery. We used to ride dirt bikes together way back to the 70's. Now he is all rich and has lots of cool toys.
 
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