Blowing in the wind - the need for a revised kickstand

[Wdugan9080]

Also, never leave a bike cover on in high winds. DAMHIK

So that's what it looks like from the bottom looking up, I always wondered, thanks for the photo, I'll blow it up so I'll know where to look for stuff, hopefully the crash bar's worked and didn't scratch the paint or break anything. No really, not a good sight, hope it all worked out, gl.
Did anyone think of turning the bike around so the port side is on the downhill slope, or am I missing something, unless you have to pull it backwards uphill I mean.
Just my 2 cent's, maybe all it's worth, and I don't think you would want to take anymore than 1/4" = about 5mm or it will lean too much to the left if you ask me. I've never seen anyone try to weld cast anything, well I saw a company come in and try to heat up a flat casting, iron and did it with a torch, as soon as it started to get hot the whole bottom cracked and fell, yeah aluminum plate torch weld is easy, but cast aluminum a whole different animal, especially if it's from China cast aluminum, it's like trying to weld slag. Too much impurities.
You can always experiment, I would have a replacement in hand first, and start grinding mm by mm, and when you find what works for you, than cut up 1/8 more and put a piece of 1/8" aluminum or steel plate , like a 6"x6" square under it before you put it down everywhere you go.
Or cut a small foot and JB weld works pretty good and if it falls off have the square piece handy.
Like 8 way's to skin a cat, but 1 more will be too much and too much of anything can kill you, don't want that. Gl

 

[Journeyman]

After cutting the stand could you drill into it and bolt on a foot pad (maybe like below), adding some epoxy for good measure, or is drilling into that cast aluminum a bad idea?

Going on vacation and plan to get out the grinder when I return.

 

[Tripps]

Between the crash bars and pannier rails, not a mark on it that I could find.

 

[TURBO200R4]

Has anyone ever tried putting a magnet on it to see if it is steel or titanium?

 

[Tripps]

Has anyone ever tried putting a magnet on it to see if it is steel or titanium?

Triumph? I seriously doubt it's titanium. I always felt Truimphs were built to a price point more so than other brands.

 

[TURBO200R4]

Triumph? I seriously doubt it's titanium. I always felt Truimphs were built to a price point more so than other brands.

Surely someone has a magnet

 

[Wdugan9080]

Surely someone has a magnet

Kevin, you were spot on with the injectors, and I followed your advice to the letter, I sent them to RC Injectors, they arrived at their shop last Thursday and they sent them back the next day, Friday, via Priority Mail, with expected delivery Tuesday. Which took a week instead; I got them yesterday (Friday).

But they made it. I popped them in, turned the key, squished the clutch lever, pushed the start button, and vrooom. I'll take another look at the tank vents in the daylight (I see two, and they both have vent hoses in place) but other than the extra hose, it looks like I'm good to go.

I would check the low voltage primary wires going to each coil. Probably loose. Slightly crimp them for a tight fit then test again. If that doesn't work, buy a Primary TPS. Even if you don't use it, you will one day. This is easy to change and set up with TuneECU. Do a search on the site for TPS replacement.

You are correct as far as surfactant. You may be overlooking added heat exchanger efficiency created by sub-nucleate boiling heat transfer by breaking up the laminate layer of coolant on the heat exchanging surface under high flow conditions The BTU transfer coefficient improves with disruption of this layer since the heat transfer required to turn water into steam is over a thousand BTU's (pressure dependent) per pound mass. The small steam bubbles created collapse as they are swept off the surface of the heat exchanger by the turbulent flow above the laminate layer transferring their heat to the bulk coolant. Sub-nucleate boiling improves heat transfer, however going beyond that regime to film and slug boiling reverses the efficiency gain and heat transfer is reduced leading to bulk boiling. So around high heat transfer areas sub-nucleate boiling is desirable to improve heat transfer. The heat transfer rate is dependent on the coolant type (ability to absorb and transfer heat (a.k.a. specific heat capacity)) the mass flow rate and the difference in temperature between the heat source and the heat sink. The equation is m (mass flow rate) times Cp (specific heat capacity) times delta T (differential temperature).

For example: Cooling with hydrogen is better than cooling with carbon dioxide per pound mass because the specific heat capacity is higher for hydrogen than carbon dioxide per pound mass (why large industrial generators are cooled with H vice CO2). Since all automotive cooling systems are water based (excluding oil coolers) then the heat transfer rate is consistent regardless of size or type of engine since they all use the same coolant (water). The best cooling you could get would be 100% pure demineralized water alone. EG with its additives are used mainly as a corrsion inhibitors (corrosion and corrosion products inhibit heat transfer). and anti-freeze (engine/radiator protection). The EG itself has a specific heat capacity about one half that of water. Therefore to lower the temperature of the engine (heat source) with a fixed volume cooling system you would have to change at least one factor that determines cooling rate, i.e. the specific heat capacity of the coolant, the mass flow rate of the coolant, or increase the differential temperature between heat source and heat sink (in this case lower heat sink temperature). In winter the system is a lot more capable of removing heat than summer simply because the delta T is higher.

Depending on the the specific heat capacity of the additive in question, it might be possible to displace enough EG to improve total heat transfer (since the coolant system is a fixed volume, some water/EG must be removed to add the product in question). If specific heat capacity of the system is unchanged by the additive product in question however, then the only other way of improving the cooling would be an increase in the total mass flow rate (since heat source and sink are unchanged).

I'm sure I'm not the only one who does not like this long kickstand. Any surface even slightly less than horizontal that slopes down to the right rules out a potential parking spot. What's more concerning to me is that even on a modest slope the other way a good gust of wind could potentially send these bikes right over. I've worried about the Roadster blowing over on especially windy days, but this bike (lighter/more upright) almost needs an anchor with the current configuration.

What's the kickstand made of (aluminum?)? A magnet has no attraction. If steel I'd just get someone to chop an inch or so off the bottom and weld on another foot, but not sure what can be done with this other than a custom made replacement. Anyone have any ideas? @Lamonster ?

#1 Part Number: T2082353 $105.48

What's the kickstand made of (aluminum?)? A magnet has no attraction. If steel I'd just get someone to chop an inch or so off the bottom and weld on another foot, but not sure what can be done with this other than a custom made replacement. Anyone have any ideas? @Lamonster ?

Surely someone has a magnet

Hey turbo how you doing, guess you're like me and skip the instructions, ( the original Post) Just kidding with you buddy, have a great day, beautiful over and up here, how's it down there GL keep it on 2 wheels

 

[TURBO200R4]

Hey turbo how you doing, guess you're like me and skip the instructions, ( the original Post) Just kidding with you buddy, have a great day, beautiful over and up here, how's it down there GL keep it on 2 wheels

Hey bro i am doing great bet u r enjoying summer
I will blame this one on the heat
106 and a low of 85. Lol

After looking at the post #1 and the picture
I would say that u might be able to take a die grinder and cut a little more out of that slot allowing the kickstand to move forward to increase angle and also make it more stable when pointed down hill.
Also remember some great ideas really suck lol
Herman

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Surely someone has a magnet

The kickstand isn't magnetic although the screw/bolt that attaches it to the frame area is along with the spring. Please don't call us Shirley.

 

[stingray]

Looking at mine today, I'm gonna do a 3/16" cut off the bottom of the kickstand pad. That should leave enough meat on the stand foot and get the lean angle over a few precious degrees. I'm thinking removing the stand and letting a machine shop shave off at the proper angle instead of grinding on it.