Bike dies when turning right???

I'm just pissed off right now about the whole situation. The dealers are no help...telling me it will be at least a week before they can expect a response from Triumph on the repair, and then another week or more waiting for the part to come in...but not to get my hopes up as recent claims have been denied.
I did talk to a local independent motorcycle repair guy that I have used previously for repairs on my other bike, and he said it does sound like a solder joint came loose on one of the wires in the switch housing, and that he could repair that if indeed the problem...which i think it is since the ignition works/doesn't work simply by wiggling the wires leading into the bottom of the switch housing. I would do it myself, but after looking at the switch housing....can't figure out how to get it off with those security bolts the way they are....
Shame on Triumph for not issuing a recall when they DO KNOW this is a problem.

Gkiller said:

Shame on Triumph for not issuing a recall when they DO KNOW this is a problem.

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Well, this is one more thing that I'll put in my "I hope we don't just accept this and move on like the HD crowd" box.

It's good to know about the weaknesses and quirks about the bike, but I still don't like them. Looks like I'm going to beef up the ignition cable support somehow. Anyone have suggestions on what has worked so far? Zip tying the cable to something? Epoxy? Relocating?

Bypass the switch with relays for the headlights, aux lighting and anything else you can. It's the electrical load that causes failures and replacing it without making the changes will only lead to replacing it yet again.
It's at it's absolute limit from the factory, any add-on will kill it. Heated grips, lights, PCIII ... anything switched only adds to the load.
You can see the resistance caused by the ignition switch just by looking at the yellowish head lights, relays will make it a bright-white-light. That resistance causes heat that weakens the solder points.

HellFire said:

You can see the resistance caused by the ignition switch just by looking at the yellowish head lights, relays will make it a bright-white-light. That resistance causes heat that weakens the solder points.

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So it's HID at the same time as well for me then.

The security bolts are fairly easy to remove. At least they were for me.

After removing the horn cover and the chrome cover on the switch, I was able to position a small flat-head screwdriver on the security bolt and tap a small groove into it. Then simply removed it like a regular screw.

Others have used a dremel to carve a groove. Whatever works for you.

I second the comments by Hellfire, the single most important thing to do is to add headlight relays or you may be facing the same situation in the future. There are several threads on the headlight relay mod.

barbagris said:

So it's HID at the same time as well for me then.

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With the relays and Sylvania Silver Star bulbs powered straight off the Odyssey PC625 battery, the light is soooo bright and white I decided not to bother with HID. I'm going to give PIAA bulbs a try when these get old, guys have been raving about them for awhile here and I'd like to see if they are better than the high dollar Sylvania's.

Nightime vision was a complaint of mine since I got the bike, I thought two headlights should have better illumination than they did. That's why I added lights under the radiator, but even with plain old bulbs, after installing the relays I could see 100% better at night. The reflectors in the Triumph headlights are goofy, they angle the low beams too far down and the high beams too high ... there is no happy medium. At least getting all the white lite possible out of them now has made them usable. I'm happy enough with them now, I think I'll keep the bike .... LOL

Dont Make right turns

I put a key less ignition and no problems and added security at the same time

ignition repaired!

Thanks to everyone for the useful feedback and tips. I took my Rocket to a local independent shop and the tech had me up and running in about an hour or so. Like others have experienced, a wire solder had come loose in the switch housing....so he re-soldered it and I'm back in business. He was able to do this without much disassembly...removed the switch chrome cover, headlights, and horn cover, then removed the bottom portion of the switch cylinder...did not even have to remove the entire switch. White wire was barely attached...re-soldered, put her back together and all is well.
I still plan to install the headlight relay in the near future, but for now I am just happy I can ride.

Thanks again to everyone for the input...very helpful.