Bike dead again.

I had a no start situation and very random running problems for a couple of days and it ended up being the connectors from the wiring harness to the coils. Those connectors are absolute junk once touch or moved they tend to not make contact very easily. I replaced every connector to my coils a week ago and no more problems runs great. just something else to check. Reading this thread Triumph needs to step up there electrical engineering a touch.
 
Just for those that want o make their own headlight relay kit it is dead easy, If you have ever wired up a driving light to a car using the original headlight wiring to switch the relay then you are half way there except you do it with two relay, one for low beam and one for high beam, I have in the past made them for a few of the guys here in Auss and the more recent one even colour coded the wires to ease the process.

Another tip to those wanting to make their own relay harness, use heat shrink and sweat some solder onto the ends of your wires before crimping any fittings and don't be afraid to use a some Dielectric Grease on All Connectors including any others under the tank while you are there, a lot f Rocket electrical issues I have come across have been due to bad connectivity due to corrosion in plugs.

Hope this helps some of you out there
My offer is still open to any one that wants one it just the cost of parts and postage which s usually about $50 I DO NOT charge for my time and am happy to do it as I realise not every one has the gear or know how.

I have made them for a 1 or two guys overseas (and happy to again) but the postage works out similar to eastern beaver, I use the larger more easily obtained Narva relays as the ones that EB use while compact can be a pain in the Ass to get out the back of who know's where, which is most likely where you will be if a relay fails I also use heavier than necessary gauge wire to give the best electrical power flow which will give the brightest possible lights.
 
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My bike died just before Easter. Ignition dead but the horn and indicators worked and battery was full. Had it picked up and taken back to the dealer. They couldn't find any fault with it when they looked and they said the ignition mod has already been done on the bike. I collected the bike and rode the 45 miles home no problem. I rode it to work last week and twice it cut out on me and at the same time the fuel light came on briefly but it started straight away each time. I went to get some petrol today ready for a ride out with friends and the bike is dead again with the same problem. Horn and indicators only working. I only bought the bike last October and have not even done 600 miles on it yet. I've come to the conclusion that I've bought a pig and I just want to sell it now and get something reliable. It's going back into the dealers on Tuesday. It's still under warranty but I've lost faith in it. I'm off to North Wales on it on the spring bank holiday in 3 weeks time for 5 days but that's in doubt now.


I SEE THAT YOU plan to make a trip. the lights on the rocket are not good and if you plan on riding at night i would think about replacing them. there are several suggestions on here my self i installed a late harley daymaker. i just did one for comparison the hd is bright white and the rocket light looks like a candel.
i am going to replace the other when i get some dollars. in the us they run $319 to $399 each. but well worth it because you can see.
 
Just an update on my bike. The dealers are giving me a hard time. They have had the bike for another week now and when I spoke to them yesterday they said that they are having trouble finding the fault. They havn't taken the bike out, all that they have done is sat on it and turned the handlebars and they say it's happend once. They don't want to replace any parts on it at all. I gave them all the advice that you guys gave me but they ignored it saying to me do you think you know more than our techicians. Anyway the service guy in the dealers is a complete jerk and it's got to the point now where I can't talk to him without arguing.I've now contacted customer service in Hinckley and spoken to the guy at the dealers about what has happened and he will come back to me today. When the Triumph guy collected my bike from my house last week the fault happened to him, when he wheeled the bike out of the garage he put the steering on hard lock and straight away the alarm started going off, the fuel pumps kicked in and the clocks spun round and then it started first time.so that's happened the last 5 times that the bike has been started and they tell me they can't find a fault. I am just a little bit pissed off at the moment.

Turbo. I've seen the threads for the lights and that is a project for the winter but thanks for the advice.
 
It really sucks that you're getting the runaround at the dealer. These bikes (in any variant) are such sweethearts to ride in spite of the brutal power that I hate that you're having your experience poisoned.
 
I gave them all the advice that you guys gave me but they ignored it saying to me do you think you know more than our techicians.
This kind of arrogance really burns my arse. Do their "technicians" think they are infallible and know more than the collective knowledge of thousands of enthusiastic customers from around the world who have experienced this problem first hand and have found a proper fix for it despite Triumph refusing to acknowledge the problem! Tell them ,"yes I do know more than your ****wit technicians so fix the burned out wiring and give me my bike back so I can ride".
 
if you have a technician that won't listen it is usually because they think they know it all and is too good to learn from any body. i do searches all the time and a lot of the time people have similar problems that result in different fixes. but a good mechanic should be able to sort that out. the google searches have saved me a lot of times and a lot of hours and money.
you don't need a triumph technician that won't listen, you need a good car electrician and the rocket complete circuit diagram. i will agree that it is almost impossible to find the problem when it is acting perfect. however in your case i would think you could put a volt meter negative lead on negative bat terminal and positive lead on fuse #9 . turn key to on position turn kill switch on then do a wiggle test by grabbing the wires below the ignition switch and while moving the wires around watch the volt meter. if the volt meter drops from 12 volts to below 8 then your trouble more than likely is in the ignition switch or the main connector under the tank you could also lift the tank and do the wiggle test on the main connector. on my 07 classic i was able to put power to #9 fuse and start mine with out turning on the key.
if you cannot find a competent mechanic i would buy a multimeter and start practicing it is not that hard. there are several people that can help you. i don't know what the freight would be but i could send you a set up to bypass ignition switch. hth herman
 
we were having lunch and talking about your problem and my guy come up with the idea that if the alarm system failed it would give almost the same symptoms as the ign. switch. there is a connector (what i call a by pass plug) that you use when you remove the alarm you install the plug to complete the circuits. if you have to take the bike out of there i would get one of them to help in eliminating the alarm as the problem.
 
just another thought
if you have the ign. switch that you replaced you can cut off the switch and use the harness for a tool. there is a diagram on this site to show how to put in a toggle switch.
i think that we could take about 20 of the guys on this site and stand up to any triumph tech in the world.
at least we listen and try to give our ideas.
ok gone for the rest of the day
 
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