Battery charger choice for tunecu flashing
The CTEK won't "overdrive" the battery if that's what you're worried about? If you pick the "small battery program" it limits voltage to 14.4V and current to 0.8A. This picture is from the manual:
 
JCS has mislabeled it, the Triumph charger is a branded OptiMate 3 which only does LA, AGM abd Gel. Not Lithium. Would've been a bargain otherwise!
 
gadget_ho said:
JCS has mislabeled it, the Triumph charger is a branded OptiMate 3 which only does LA, AGM abd Gel. Not Lithium. Would've been a bargain otherwise!
Click to expand...
bugger i was starting to think about that one myself as that would have been a bargain
 
interesting,, the triumph one really is a low output unit.. 0.8 amp, i have a projecta here that was about 15 bucks i use for charging oen of the kids ride on lead acid batteries,, and it puts out 1amp.... dare say you would want at least 2 amps just incase you forgot to pull the headlight fuse or the constant power on was drawing more.

 
I had massive problems getting TuneECU to connect at all earlier this year. Headlight fuse out, charger on. I tried the next day, worked perfectly - I'd forgotten to switch on the charger. It just goes to show, apparently the charger creates some sort of harmonics that the Android Tablet really didn't like. In future, I fully charge the battery overnight, pull the headlight fuse, and connect TuneECU without the charger. Whatever you want to do, when there is virtually no load - the stock battery will handle it all without appreciable voltage drop (unless it's a damaged battery ?). When you look at the amount of power the ECU draws - it's pretty minimal surely ?
 
I would say if there is a worry then hook a volt meter
You could even do a test run with the light fuse pulled
 
Big thanks to Rockatansky, Dougl, Turbo200R4, Gadget Ho, Xsannz, Ward.
Appreciate everyone's advice and now I know what I need to do to take care of the battery side of things for ecu flashing.
Thanks everyone!
 
TuneECU is not the load issue, to flash the ECU the ignition has to be on and all the bike's sensors and systems (inc fuel pump) are active. The headlights/DRL's will also come on hence why you need to pull the lighting fuse and switch the DRL's off.
 
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