Barnett clutch

Impact wrench worked to take out the big nut. Bolt has extracted in 3 minutes at neighborhood tech company who specializes in engineering sample.
It's too easy for them to charge me. Now I ordered long 40mm bolt and heavy duty washer at fastenal. It was good progress (or recovery) today.

Great Nomb, I ordered 45 mm long but no washer as I could not find a washer with the same OD as the Triuph ones. So I used a 10 mm socket upside down and knocked the Thriuph bolts thru the washerthey were a tight fit but when I was done they went right on the Fastenal bolts. I believe you must have at minimum the same Outside diameter as the Triumph ones (.780") so you get the same seating surface on the clutch springs. To large and they will drag in the pressure plate.

Everything has done finally but the clutch does not work properly. It cannot be disconnected at all. next move will be tighten the wire more to find the point where I can disengage them. Nobu

Make sure puch marks line up on the liftershaft and crank arm. 2 to 3 mm free play is what needs to be in the cable.





Another easy way to check free plaay is on the cable sheath. hold clutch handle outward and check at the aluminum ferral and knurled adjusting nut.





Barnet uses kevlar fibers which hold up well but seem to give grief when it comes to releasing the clutch. you will probably have to stay closer to 2 mm on the free play to get as much movement of the clutch pack as possible without the lifter piece and liftershaft being in constant contact.

Also I have noticed after putting mine together it takes a little bit to get the clutch adjusted right. You have to let things settle in and keep an eye on the adjustment for a wee bit.
Hope this helps

My punch mark has to be some what more than default.
in your picture if we say inner/outer punch mark align at 12 o'clock,
my outer mark has to be past 2 o'clock. That's how it was adjusted by dealer last time before the clutch problem.

Currently my marks are similar position like yours but then I need to tighten by moving outer clockwise. I plan to use Tongue-and-groove plier (File:Multiple pliers.jpg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) in order to twist the lifter shaft head.

The question is that if I tighten it by the shaft and arm position,
is there any way to secure the free play at the same time?

The worst senario is that I open again and takeout the springs, fasten the 5 cover bolt again without springs and check the clutch disengagement movement without spring pressure. I have not done this check.

I appreciate always for your responses.

Nobu

nomnob said:

My punch mark has to be some what more than default.
in your picture if we say inner/outer punch mark align at 12 o'clock,
my outer mark has to be past 2 o'clock. That's how it was adjusted by dealer last time before the clutch problem.

Currently my marks are similar position like yours but then I need to tighten by moving outer clockwise. I plan to use Tongue-and-groove plier (File:Multiple pliers.jpg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) in order to twist the lifter shaft head.

The question is that if I tighten it by the shaft and arm position,
is there any way to secure the free play at the same time?

The worst senario is that I open again and takeout the springs, fasten the 5 cover bolt again without springs and check the clutch disengagement movement without spring pressure. I have not done this check.

I appreciate always for your responses.

Nobu

Click to expand...

You should be able to feel the free play with your hand at the crank arm that attatches to the liftershaft. I tried using a tool before and well I ordered another lifter shaft to make a long story short.

If your needing mor epul you can rotate the splines one tooth. But you can also lengthen the cable sheath down at the bottom of the sheath. Did you use the anti judder spring and seat? If so did you use the right fiber in the bottom of the clutch. It is designed to go over the antijudder seat.

Just to bring this old thread back to life..... I just installed a Barnett clutch and springs in my 2005 Rocket roadster/classic, I dunno, it's a 2005! Quit for the evening, as it is getting cool down here in SW Florida. Tomorrow I will finish up with the silicone hoses and radiator. What I wanted to mention, was there is a significant difference in the pull of the clutch leaver! I'm guessing the clutch that was in it was an original, with 58,000 miles. All the steels were blue heat marked, but not noticeably warped, like I suspected. The friction pads were worn down pretty well, but none down to steel. I have ordered the newer style pressure plate and bearing and lifter, but she came apart so easy, I couldn't resist putting her back together like she came apart. I left the judder spring and it's washer out, so we'll see how that goes. Also it had no "wave" washer on the lifter, so I didn't put one in. I did put in a new lifter. I also have 2 lifter rods ordered, but the one in it showed no signs of wear of discolor, so I didn't want to wait on all the parts I've ordered from Triumph. Tomorrow will tell the truth! Fingers crossed!

Sometimes nice to bring an old thread back to life!