Barnett clutch

nomnob said:

Thank you, Warp. I will drain the sump and put the exptra oil tray on the ground for further leak.

I will also order lifter piece but Barnett kit has already ordered. After I compared Stock/Barnett/MTC, I have chosen Barnett mainly because of price and considering that my Rocket has no mod for motor.
I prefer to use stock but don't know why stock priced about double in total if I order friction, plates and springs.

One more question about gasket installation. Do I need any grease or oil to seal on gasket when I install it?

Thanks Nobu

Click to expand...

the only gasket you will need to replace is the clutch cover gasket Ther is a chance yours will suvive enough that permatex will hold but I always order one anyway. The book tells you to pull the front fender and wheel. This is so you do not scratch the fender. You can save time and place a good towel over the fender and leave it and the wheel on. You just have to be carefull. If your oil is new save it and put it back in. Do not forget to unplug the radiator fan before pulling the radiator. the plug is under the right side infill panell where the neck is. Also do not forget to plug her back in on assembly.

It looks like I have to take out whole radiator assy off before the clutch cover work...Can I do the clutch replace work without draining radiator fluid and remove all assy but by just unbolt water pomp, grill and fan?

nomnob said:

It looks like I have to take out whole radiator assy off before the clutch cover work...Can I do the clutch replace work without draining radiator fluid and remove all assy but by just unbolt water pomp, grill and fan?

Click to expand...

Yes you have to remove the radiator as there are two radiator brackets that have to be taken off or loosened and rotated up so they clear the clutch cover. Plus the supply pipe on the water pum has to cme of the block and has a clutch cover bolt thru the braket,
Drain radiator by loosening the water pump bolts three or four turns, on the side of the pump cover face wher it meets the pump there is a nice slot to work cove loose so the fliud will drain prettyquick. You can retain the clean coolant to go back in if you want. after it is drained take all three pump bolts out and leave cover attached to hose and lower radiator. Take all radiaor chrome guards off and loosen the two upper radiator bolts plus lower one on the tensioner side of the motor (left as you facing the clutch cover. from the left side as you are facing the engine use a long screw driver to loosen up to hose clamp on the radiator. Work hose loose and the slide radiator off the right lower pin giude. Set radiator aside ut of the way. Oh and do not forget to unhook over flow hose right below radiator cap. The manual is pretty straight forward. It has you remove the wheel and fender which can be left on just cover fender with a towel to protect it from scratches.
Hope this helps

Warp, Thank you for your reply. I appreciate all of your writings about clutch failure here and .com site.

Now I realized how important to change the lifter piece to prevent future failure though it's a big surgery for me. Since I just renew the radiator fluid and oil, I will reuse it.

At the dealer there was a two parts numbers listed on their system as R3/R3C/R3R parts. Nobody know which one's the updated parts or if both of them are compatible or not. A Guy even called triumph distribution center but they could not understand the needs to replace this part nor even the difference. So I just picked what they said newer parts number, T1170029. I Hope that's the one redesigned fatter nipple. I will just eat restocking fee of 20% which is only $6.

this is the one I used

I can't believe that I ordered older one...I will call to cancell the order tomorrow.

There cheap I went thru a few of the ones with smaller heads on them they for some reason did not last as long. and move around in the lifter shaft to much compared the the one above.
here is some comparisons









You can see why I like the fit of the larger head in the lifter shaft.
I only broke one of these lifter pieces but I had to grenade the inner clutch hub to do it.



you can always find the next week link

I cancelled and reordered the piece today. They said it should arrive next week.

So...what a heat breaking picture! Is it a consequence of broken lifter piece? I want definitely avoid this situation.

No dude although the lifter piece broke in the ordeal. Its what happens when you enter the excessive horse power zone

Ever hear a spring tower break ? Not a pretty sound. The first two went when I banged 4th gear at 145 mph. The next couple when I shifted into fifth when the spedo hit 6 Oclock. As it disintagrated I got down to 80 mph before the drive trane locked up. This is where the input shaft of the tranny bent.

You're such a mine of information Warp, you don't only know how to fix 'em, you know how to break 'em to.