I predict you won't go back to the Cobra for a number of good reasons.
I like the way the tire fits better visually, and i like the idea of better turn in. i hear rumblings that a metz cruisertec is on the way in our size. but man what i wouldn't give for a road 6 setup on that bike. i raised the rear mudguard like others have said but idk if its actually necessary (or maybe i just have it too high). Going to play around with it this weekend.
 
I like the way the tire fits better visually, and i like the idea of better turn in. i hear rumblings that a metz cruisertec is on the way in our size. but man what i wouldn't give for a road 6 setup on that bike. i raised the rear mudguard like others have said but idk if its actually necessary (or maybe i just have it too high). Going to play around with it this weekend.
You don't need to raise the very back rear mud guard, it's the forward one (by the exhaust). That's probably what you meant. Theoretically, you just need to raise it 1/2", but I was getting a whistling sound so I raised it up to a full inch and that is about right. You'll definitely see improved handling, tire life, and money in your wallet.
 
i haven't done it yet (although it is on my to do list, after coolant flush and brake and clutch fluid renew, AND having to mount a bridgestone exedra because no one has cobra chromes in stock). the adjustment screws look to be under the plenum cover which isn't obstructed by the tank. I think the thought behind the tank removal is to clear the intake runner? but i could be missing something.
Any instructions on draining the antifreeze from the radiator and block that you know of?
 
Any instructions on draining the antifreeze from the radiator and block that you know of?
draining the radiator is super simple. pivot the coolant expansion tank out of the way (like you do for oil change procedure by the oil filter) and then (looking at the headlights head on) on the left lower side there's a bolt for drainage. its a little guy, but that's basically it. Its when you need to bleed the clutch where you have to drain the coolant, remove a whole bunch of trim, remove (at least) the bottom connection of the radiator... just to access the compartment the bleed nipple for the clutch is in lol
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2023-03-03 at 11.22.49 AM.png
    Screen Shot 2023-03-03 at 11.22.49 AM.png
    85.3 KB · Views: 10
  • Screen Shot 2023-03-03 at 11.22.53 AM.png
    Screen Shot 2023-03-03 at 11.22.53 AM.png
    65.6 KB · Views: 10
You don't need to raise the very back rear mud guard, it's the forward one (by the exhaust). That's probably what you meant. Theoretically, you just need to raise it 1/2", but I was getting a whistling sound so I raised it up to a full inch and that is about right. You'll definitely see improved handling, tire life, and money in your wallet.
Yup, just the one the one tucked in there. i have it raised, albeit currently higher on the right than the left, but looking at it with the new tire mounted, not sure i needs to be as high as i have it.
 
draining the radiator is super simple. pivot the coolant expansion tank out of the way (like you do for oil change procedure by the oil filter) and then (looking at the headlights head on) on the left lower side there's a bolt for drainage. its a little guy, but that's basically it. Its when you need to bleed the clutch where you have to drain the coolant, remove a whole bunch of trim, remove (at least) the bottom connection of the radiator... just to access the compartment the bleed nipple for the clutch is in lol
Thanks, jlagrave! For all the information on renewing the antifreeze. What type of Antifreeze do you recommend? I have Engine Ice on hand do you recomend this?
 
Thanks, jlagrave! For all the information on renewing the antifreeze. What type of Antifreeze do you recommend? I have Engine Ice on hand do you recomend this?
I am not a tech and wouldn’t feel comfortable recommending anything as the coolant conversation has plenty of people divided lol HOAT coolant is the way to go according to manual. I personally used Zerex GO5
 
will very likely do max 1A or so
You're definitely right. They came today and the gauge is way too thin. Amazon return here they come. I have some other ideas I'll post IF it's even needed to balance the TBs. @jlagrave replaced the air filter without removing the tank, so it seems you can probably do the throttle bodies without all the hassle the manual lays out for us. I plan to get to this in the next couple of weeks, I hope. Riding this weekend and then replacing the rear tire (again, again.....). I'll recheck the lube on the drive shaft, change dif fluid, replace front brakes..... Balancing the TBs is past due, but I keep putting it off for other maintenance.
 
will very likely do max 1A or so
71M1DRxzNfL._AC_SL1200_.jpg
You're definitely right. They came today and the gauge is way too thin. Amazon return here they come. I have some other ideas I'll post IF it's even needed to balance the TBs. Since @jlagrave was able to replace the air filter without removing the tank none of this stuff may be necessary anyway.

I hope to get to Balancing the TBs in the next couple of weeks and will post an update. Riding this weekend and I keep putting it off for other more pressing maintenance [time to change the rear tire (again, again....), check the drive shaft lube, change dif fluid, replace front brakes.... The list never ends].
 
Back
Top