Asking for help with Cam Cover Gasket replacement

[mstraub72]

You guys rule. The end. Now to figure out how to get that whole bundle of wires and that front coil out of there...I just can't spot where that weird, sorta loose bracket that the front coil, along with a bunch of the main connectors all clip too, is mounted. I can see the two bolts that physically hold the front coil to the bracket, but I sure can't spot where the bracket itself is clipped to. At least this $140 service manual is REALLY detailed. Hahaha.....ffs. I'm going to hunt for Sonny's "cam replacement" writeup immediately after posting this.

And I'll take everyone's advice and take the throttle bodies off too...more experience, right? Should have worn my GoPro on my head while I was doing this so I could remember where everything went. I'm sure going to be rather pleased if I manage to get this all back together and she stays dry for my Northwest US / BC / AB tour in August...

And to Sonny's point, I do have a generic inch/lb and ft/lb set of torque wrenches, just Canadian Tire (our local hardware / everything else kinda store) specials. I'll see if I can borrow one from someone who works in a proper shop to do the final torque down. It'd be nice to know it's RIGHT after all this work. OH! That's another topic...I've seen on other threads re: this topic that there was a bit of a debate over 10nm vs 12nm final torque. Apparently the older models used 10nm, and these newer ones used 12nm, but it seems to be anecdotal evidence that the later ones are the troublemakers when it comes to these gaskets. Figure a guy should maybe just stop at 10nm when torquing up?

 

[Claviger]

I use 10nm.

 

[barbagris]

I use 10nm.

10nanometres - your poor wife

 

[mstraub72]

Okay all, I've made great progress, but have hit another snag. Would love more input, as the manual isn't being much help currently. I took Sonny's and Clavigers advice, and tackled the throttle bodies. I managed to get every f'n connector undone and labeled, and got the front coil assy out of the way too, so that's good. You can really see the cam cover much better now:



Disconnected everything going to the throttle bodies (TB's from now on), and successfully loosened off the hose clamps that hold the TB's to the Transition Pieces. The manual then states, rather generically, "release the two fixings securing the throttle bodies to the transition piece brackets.".



Looking at the actual pieces that would appear to hold the TB assembly to the lower pieces, I only see this one bolt that I've removed:



On the front side, I've got everything way out of the way, but I don't see any bolts over here that look like they're holding the TB's to the transition pieces.



The manual doesn't indicate which "two fixings" it's talking about, but giving the TB assy a little tug, it sure feels like it's tightly bolted down somewhere else....

Any input would be fantastic...my brain is done for the day. More tomorrow. Thanks again all, really appreciate the hand holding for my first go'around.

 

[Joesmoe]

Turns out, there are two - one on either end, down low, right angle brackets that attach at the foot to one of the 8mm bolts holding the retainer for the soft rubber boots, and the other end (flat against the TB base) is bolted.

You have to get both of those loose. The rear one is out in the open. Depending on what is loaded up front, the front can be hard to see.

Good luck.

 

[mstraub72]

@Joesmoe, can you see the front one you're referring to in my attached pic? And confirm I have the correct rear one removed in the other attached photo?

 

[Joesmoe]

Right, you found the rear one o.k. . . . I had the same challenge. You just have to be more diligent to find (feel) that front one. You're almost there.

And the reason you need to move the TB (and oh by the way, you don't have to remove the cables -- a trick revealed by @warp9.9 -- leaving them attached, drape the TB over the handlebar) is so you have clearance to properly torque the bolts upon reassembly -- a critical activity that needs to be done incrementally and according to the cross sequence in the manual.

 

[warp9.9]

Sorry it took me so long to see this. I just rannout to the trailer and took this shot from the front. Mind you my coolant overflow bottle is gone. But the tank in down and the bear claw is still on. Look at the yeller dot below the arrow. You will see the head of the fixing bolt.

 

[mstraub72]

Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiice! @warp9.9 , photo evidence...the best kind. @Joesmoe , thanks as well for the description and the encouragement. I'm happily self-employed, so I'm going to whip through today as fast as I can, and get back on the wrenches. Shame I just learned about that "leaving the cables on" trick, but that's alright...it's all good experience. And I have a ton of room under the tank without all that airbox plumbing, so I should hopefully be just fine on the reassembly.

You guys have all mentioned that I should give it a clean and lube while she's out. I agree. Any tips on what products you like to use for both the cleaner and the lube? Seems like a synthetic dry lube would be the least dirt attracting for the TB moving parts... I'm all ears if you have good ideas. I'll be watching the thread as I'm making my rounds today, and will pick up any stuff I don't have.

 

[warp9.9]

If you just took the cable loose below they go back on quickly especially if you just lossened the top nuts right above the throttle wheel. As for cleaner lube I usaully use WD40 although last time I used the Sea Foam equivalent.