Approximate price to replace stator

DEcosse said:

List price (US) on an OEM stator is $502.
An OEM R/R is $366.
I presume the NH company you refer is RicksMotorSportElectics, who indeed have good quality products - their stator is $225 at this time of writing.
(but for R/R I would much rather spend the money on the Suzuki OEM Series Regulator from the DL1000A ~ $180 list, can be found for ~$140)

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DEcosse said:

I would expect that stator is absolutely fine.

There's really no good outcome here unfortunately - the tech may indeed have been right, but either way, the guy is still out the cost of repair.
I'm not at all insistent it was probably not failed - may well be - would just have liked to see confirmation before engaging in such an extensive/expensive outcome.
Maybea little more 'feel good' (or at least better) for your neighbour if indeed it is proved to be bad.
But there would certainly be no satisfaction on my part in finding it was OK.

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Conmore said:

Hi there

Yes I totally agree, and if it had been my machine I would’ve wanted far more information before proceeding with such an expensive labour based repair. But hey we’re all different and my neighbour was at a loose end because he broke down “out in the sticks” as we say colloquially here in Australia. The mechanic doing the work specialises in dyno tuning amongst other work. Doesn’t really make any difference now as you said. And I hope for his sake the stator is bad. Sincere thanks for all the input. Cheers

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DEcosse said:

Most respectfully would have to disagree with that - there is as much (or little) likelihood of a replacement stator failing as the original (if it has not yet failed)
They are not a 'wear' item - not subject to a longevity aspect, but more due to either manufacturing deviation or an external influence.
So would not recommend, in this case, to replace if it is still serviceable



That I agree with - it generally appears to be quite robust - I have seen reported failures, but have no valid confirmation on whether these were legitimate or not
But I would certainly say that failures at at worst, rare!



Well actually it IS still a Shunt type - just that it uses MOSFET devices for the shunts, rather than the older style SCR types
That makes the R/R itself somewhat more reliable but does nothing to change the reliability of the stator.
I HAVE actually seen several of the OEM R/R fails, so they are not bulletproof (although would agree generally quite a good component)

The ultimate preventive maintenance is to install a SERIES type regulator - have written about this elsewhere - the Suzuki DL1000A R/R (Shindengen type SH847AA) is the best safeguard to maintain lower current through the stator and hence better reliability

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Conmore said:

Hi there

I’m posting this question on behalf of my next door neighbour who owns an 05 Rocket III. Last time he went on a ride it developed charging problems (battery is only 2 months old) and it has been diagnosed as a faulty stator. I was wondering if anyone with experience could give me a ballpark figure on the cost of replacing the stator including the part itself. I’ve done some Googling for him and have discovered that the motor needs to be lifted in order for it to be replaced but could find no info on how long it takes and the cost of the stator. We’re in Victoria if that helps.

Cheers

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Conmore said:

Hi there

I’m posting this question on behalf of my next door neighbour who owns an 05 Rocket III. Last time he went on a ride it developed charging problems (battery is only 2 months old) and it has been diagnosed as a faulty stator. I was wondering if anyone with experience could give me a ballpark figure on the cost of replacing the stator including the part itself. I’ve done some Googling for him and have discovered that the motor needs to be lifted in order for it to be replaced but could find no info on how long it takes and the cost of the stator. We’re in Victoria if that helps.

Cheers

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DEcosse said:

First thing is to confirm it REALLY is the stator!
HUGE job on an R3 to replace - needs the engine to come out - no kidding! - So better to be sure.
Most shops end up 'guessing' at the stator being the problem without really knowing how to confirm - bad enough on most bikes, but major project and cost if misdiagnosed on an R3!

VERY simple test - you don't even need bike running, or to measure voltage to check stator.
disconnect the R/R;
Set Multimeter to Resistance (Ohms) scale;
(Note the reading when the probes are not connected to anything; then touch probes together and it should go close to '0' - first reading is 'open' circuit and second reading is 'short' circuit)
Now set one probe on ANY one of three terminals in connector going back to the stator;
connect other probe to engine ground.
(note carefully that we are not measuring BETWEEN PINS - we are measuring from ANY ONE pin to Engine ground - it does not matter which pin you select as they will all read the same, whether that be all good, or all bad)

If it reads 'zero' then that is short circuit and indeed stator is toast;
If it reads 'open' (typically 1999 or similar depending on meter - same as if probes not connected to anything) then the stator is 99.99% to be good (in which case likely the R/R that is the issue)[/

DEcosse said:

First thing is to confirm it REALLY is the stator!
HUGE job on an R3 to replace - needs the engine to come out - no kidding! - So better to be sure.
Most shops end up 'guessing' at the stator being the problem without really knowing how to confirm - bad enough on most bikes, but major project and cost if misdiagnosed on an R3!

VERY simple test - you don't even need bike running, or to measure voltage to check stator.
disconnect the R/R;
Set Multimeter to Resistance (Ohms) scale;
(Note the reading when the probes are not connected to anything; then touch probes together and it should go close to '0' - first reading is 'open' circuit and second reading is 'short' circuit)
Now set one probe on ANY one of three terminals in connector going back to the stator;
connect other probe to engine ground.
(note carefully that we are not measuring BETWEEN PINS - we are measuring from ANY ONE pin to Engine ground - it does not matter which pin you select as they will all read the same, whether that be all good, or all bad)

If it reads 'zero' then that is short circuit and indeed stator is toast;
If it reads 'open' (typically 1999 or similar depending on meter - same as if probes not connected to anything) then the stator is 99.99% to be good (in which case likely the R/R that is the issue)

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warp9.9 said:

Too bad. It actually can be done with the engine in the bike and rear frame lifted. But since your buddy wouldn't believe people about testing it first he probably would have went the long way anyway.


I wish him luck

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