Approximate price to replace stator

[Claviger]

@Conmore The R3 stator is a pretty beefy unit. The bike makes a ton of electricity and it's significantly over-provisioned from the factory. As a rule on an R3, it's a good idea to replace the stator anytime you open the motor, just good practice. I actually can't recall anyone posting about a confirmed bad stator over the last 4 years on these boards.

The RRs are also pretty durable units, not like the old shunt type, and Decosse is a legit electrical mad genius, I'm sure hes forgotten more about Triumph electrical systems than most will every learn

 

[DEcosse]

.... As a rule on an R3, it's a good idea to replace the stator anytime you open the motor, just good practice.

Most respectfully would have to disagree with that - there is as much (or little) likelihood of a replacement stator failing as the original (if it has not yet failed)
They are not a 'wear' item - not subject to a longevity aspect, but more due to either manufacturing deviation or an external influence.
So would not recommend, in this case, to replace if it is still serviceable

I actually can't recall anyone posting about a confirmed bad stator over the last 4 years on these boards.

That I agree with - it generally appears to be quite robust - I have seen reported failures, but have no valid confirmation on whether these were legitimate or not
But I would certainly say that failures at at worst, rare!

... The RRs are also pretty durable units, not like the old shunt type ...

Well actually it IS still a Shunt type - just that it uses MOSFET devices for the shunts, rather than the older style SCR types
That makes the R/R itself somewhat more reliable but does nothing to change the reliability of the stator.
I HAVE actually seen several of the OEM R/R fails, so they are not bulletproof (although would agree generally quite a good component)

The ultimate preventive maintenance is to install a SERIES type regulator - have written about this elsewhere - the Suzuki DL1000A R/R (Shindengen type SH847AA) is the best safeguard to maintain lower current through the stator and hence better reliability

 

[Mittzy]

Changed mine to a SERIES R/R - Great peace of mind. Still see the old one in the bottom right corner.

 

[Ishrub]

Yep, Shindengen type SH847AA, a great solution to my stock RR getting fried, aided by diagnosis and advice @DEcosse , not had a problem since.

DO NOT buy a cheap shunt type Chinese RR on eBay as I did, mine never worked. If you cannot wait for or find a Shindengen type SH847AA get a second hand one stock one from a wreckers.
$69 with free postage in Oz and from a rare Rocket X for bragging rights
Voltage regulator rectifier TRIUMPH ROCKET X 2300 III 3 2015 | eBay

 

[leatal]

I just wish someone would sell an extension harness to the R/R so we could mount the R/R close to the OEM location and in an open area.

 

[DEcosse]

I just wish someone would sell an extension harness to the R/R so we could mount the R/R close to the OEM location and in an open area.

There are no Furukawa 3-way male connectors available on the market (that I know of), so nothing that would make a plug n play harness*.
The second part is confusing - 'close to the OEM location' is not a problem with the stock harness - in Mittzy's pics above, he has simply re-routed it.
There's quite a bit of latitude with the OEM harness.
So only if you wanted to remote it considerably further away from OEM location (i.e. NOT close to ) would you need extender.

* It would be possible to make a quasi-plug-&-play extender - there are two-way male connectors available and it would involve popping the terminals out of the 3-way and re-inserting into a pair of two-ways.
At least that would mean the cables would not require re-termination (and also be reversible)
Super-expensive though ..........
Shouldn't be necessary with @Mittzy - like install.

 

[Joesmoe]

I agree with @leatal - the harness was not long enough to put the RR back where I wanted it close to the original location.

So @DEcosse if you ever run into those connectors, please keep us in mind.

 

[DEcosse]

The other alternative is just to have a cable with bare terminals only (i.e. no plastic shell) on the interface to OEM cable - most reliable would be to pop the housing off the female end and then mate the male & female terminals together and shroud over each mated-pair of terminals with heatshrink. Then the OEM female shell can be re-purposed at the other end (to mate back into the R/R) with just new terminals.
So you get it done with just 5 male and 5 females terminals only, rather than $60 worth of complete connectors!
i.e. the extender cables would be made with just terminals crimped on each end (male and female respectively);
remove the OEM female housing from the OEM harness and re-purpose onto the female end of the extender cable (or it could be supplied with the complete female pre-assembled on one end - but then you'd still be left with the original shell, now unused);
Mate each pair and shrink over with heat-shrink and plug the other end (now a complete shell as per OEM) into the R/R.
And still all reversible if need-be.

 

[Joesmoe]

@DEcosse were you to make such, with the quality work you do on the keyless ignition which is popular here, I would buy it, and bet I'd not be the only one.

Heck, you could offer two kits: one with the Shindegen RR plus harness, and the other just the harness for us early adopters.

 

[leatal]

@DEcosse were you to make such, with the quality work you do on the keyless ignition which is popular here, I would buy it, and bet I'd not be the only one.

Heck, you could offer two kits: one with the Shindegen RR plus harness, and the other just the harness for us early adopters.

I would also purchase one as I want to relocate the R/R further rearward and not under the side cover.