Another 'won't start' post but I have tried...

Check the gear position sensor (lower back of engine). Mine failed and had no start condition.
 
Will do when l get back to it - but pulling in the clutch lever would override it surely.?
 
Turbo -why is there no power into the starter relay? Doesn't it come direct from a fuse, which are all good as I previously mentioned?
I'll try the fused jumper wire from battery to that BL/YL wire into the starter repay.
 
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Freddy said:
Turbo -why is there no power into the starter relay? Doesn't it come direct from a fuse, which are all good as I previously mentioned?
I'll try the fused jumper wire from battery to that BL/YL wire into the starter repay.
Click to expand...
this is for standard/classics not touring i am assuming that it will be the same
the starter relay is the the place to start to check voltages.
12 volts comes through the ign switch to 20 amp fuse to number 30 terminal
after all the safety things clutch switch, nuetral light ect computer will furnish a ground for 85
not sure about 86 been a while
87 goes to starter solenoid
best to check voltages not with ohms
must have power on #30 you can use test wire with 20 amp fuse to put power on #30
tomorrow i can pull up the touring diagram and maybe help

hth herman
to answer your question more that likely it has a bad ign switch they (reg rockets get hot and the soldier melts and the ign wire falls off.
 
Just my two cents. My radiator fan would not turn on a few years back. Thought it was the relay, swapped the relays, no change. I had taken the fuse out and looked at that first. Looked good. Pulled the radiator shrouds off to get to the fan motor. It turned on with a direct wire from the battery. Spent hours. No progress. Finally someone on here convinced me to check continuity across the fuse. Did that. Bingo. Fuse looked good, it wasn't. Lesson learned that day!
 
Turbo, I hope to do that tomorrow.

Question: a. would a faulty side-stand switch alone cause a no start condition or b. prevent power to #30 on the starter relay - assuming all else is good?

To my mind #30 should always have power with key ON - but I note Starmanut's comment.
 
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Answer to question a is no
Sidestand down will be bypassed when in neutral with green light on.
Answer to question b. Is no.
Easy test 12v test light
Ignition on test light clamp on negative bat terminal touch probe to battery to positive should lite up.
Probe to each side of fuses if it lights up on both sides it's good if it lights up on one side it is bad.
 
I agree that it's probably a faulty Ignition switch - it happened to my 2007 Classic.

(Nice to see that my 'labelled' electrical diagram survived the forum migration from years back.! My handle back then was 'Cryian'.)
 
brought up wiring diagram of touring i will try to post link
power goes thru ign switch then to number 9 fuse then to #30 pin on starter relay
https://www.piano-person.com/r3docs/R3T Electrical.jpg
#1 = 30 terminal
#5 = 87A
#4 =85 COMPUTER grounding
#6 = 86 power from starter button
#8 = 87 to starter solenoid

you had mention a black/yellow wire (4 prong terminal ?) so think you are on the wrong relay so that means all of your testing is wrong
it has to be a 5 terminal relay (starter relay) also the engine management relay is 5 prong.
 
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