An R+D Thread - Different instruments.

The Daytona tac I have works good and was easy for @DEcosse to hook up, he’s the best, picked it out too.here are 10 pictures if you want more dollar each this particular unit gives voltage in display and shift light pre sets

I take it these are the before you painted it pink pics??

Daytona have a good rep'. Originally Japanese, though like most instrument makers they have offices in Taiwan. I have simply never used one on my own bikes.

I'm umming and ahring as the better fit for GG's dash hole is an ACEWELL. And, as I have pointed out before, my experience of AceWell has been thus far less than ideal.
Still one has to be open to change.



Marketed for BMW's but it'll be an easy fit.

For R3's more options.



Speedo and tacho in one device.

Hey @barbagris, do you know if Julio ever got the Koso to work with the OEM speed sensor?

I am currently trying to wire up a Koso TNT-04 the same way but am not getting any speed signal.
The black/yellow cable in the sub-harness is wired to switched 12V (brown), instrument speedo power out (red) is not connected to anything, the rest is wired as per the previous instructions.

If anyone has anyother ideas, please let me know! Pulling my hair out on a daily basis here

If you could post your koso instructions i will check against my koso Daytona unit and advise how i did it ( well decosse) on a touring

@Kevin frazier - yours is a tach; @MickeJagekrans is inquiring about speed function

On that note

MickeJagekrans said:

The black/yellow cable in the sub-harness is wired to switched 12V (brown), instrument speedo power out (red) is not connected to anything,

Click to expand...

The black/yellow from OEM instrument harness to the Speed Sender is the supply (speedo sender out) for the sender; so that wire indeed needs to be connected to switched +12V - that should put 12V on the Orange/Red of the sender (but note the instrument itself also needs switched power to it)
I'm not sure what you're talking about 'speedo power out' being red (although I think that may be reference to the Koso Speed Sender Harness wiring) - as long as you have 12V on the Black/Yellow with key-on, that should be good, whether red wire connected or not
And of course the sender must see ground on the black wire
The speed signal itself would be connected to and processed by the ECU; ECU speed output at main harness connector would be red/orange - that would connect to your speed sender green wire (not to be confused with the other koso main harness green wire which is fuel level

DEcosse said:

@Kevin frazier - yours is a tach; @MickeJagekrans is inquiring about speed function

On that note


The black/yellow from OEM instrument harness to the Speed Sender is the supply (speedo sender out) for the sender; so that wire indeed needs to be connected to switched +12V - that should put 12V on the Orange/Red of the sender (but note the instrument itself also needs switched power to it)
I'm not sure what you're talking about 'speedo power out' being red (although I think that may be reference to the Koso Speed Sender Harness wiring) - as long as you have 12V on the Black/Yellow with key-on, that should be good, whether red wire connected or not
And of course the sender must see ground on the black wire
The speed signal itself would be connected to and processed by the ECU; ECU speed output at main harness connector would be red/orange - that would connect to your speed sender green wire (not to be confused with the other koso main harness green wire which is fuel level

Click to expand...

Switched +12V is connected to both B/Y and the instrument via the same wire, which as I understand it should not be a problem? (switched 12V (2) already had a spliced-on wire in the sub-harness).
Yeah I did formulate myself poorly there, meant Koso speed sender red wire.
Current wiring of sender is:
Red -> X
Black -> Ground 12 (seems to be a common ground so 10 should work as well)
White* -> Red/Orange 13

*The TNT-04 has a connector for the Koso Active speed sensor. The wire colours from the instrument are something like B/W, Blue/White, Blue; so I cut and stripped the Koso speed sensor wires after the connector on the sensor side where the wire colours are Red, White and Black.
I tested the speedometer function by repeatedly touching the white and black wire which gave me a speed readout on the instrument.

I think that my next step will have to be to wire up my multimeter and read voltages on the ECU speed output wire while driving somehow.
You wouldn't happen to know what the speed signal should look like by any chance? Pulses per wheel revolution or whatever it is sending?

Thanks for helping out, you guys are amazing!

I've got a sneaking suspicion that the speed sender circuit might differ between the TNT-04 and the RX2-N since the RX2-N can handle up to 60 pulses and the TNT only can handle 20. Put in an order for a new RX2-N in case the TNT can't handle the OEM speed signal.

AFAIK - Julio went for the KOSO sensor and left it as that.

I would expect the signal from the ECU to be a square-ish wave. Typical would be "x" pulses per Kilometer (ppk). This is not often documented. I've not seen it documented for the R3.

We did establish the ppk value from the gear wheel in the gearbox to calibrate the Fuelbot (and I'd have to search for it on here) - but the ECU almost certainly does not use that value. We know this because we can modify the indicated speed value via TuneECU. So we know the speedo pulse from the ECU is software driven and not a straight electro-mechanical pulse. Thus I would also suspect square wave.

1000 ppk would be fairly standard - You can easily fool an electronic speedo. 1000ppk is wheel circumference of 1 metre and 1 pulse per turn. It's a good start. If it's massively out - you'd see it in the first few meters of rolling.

A multimeter will not be much use - do you happen to have a digital rev counter lying about?. RPM can easily be calibrated to ppk . I do - but I admit to having odd collections

barbagris said:

AFAIK - Julio went for the KOSO sensor and left it as that.

I would expect the signal from the ECU to be a square-ish wave. Typical would be "x" pulses per Kilometer (ppk). This is not often documented. I've not seen it documented for the R3.

We did establish the ppk value from the gear wheel in the gearbox to calibrate the Fuelbot (and I'd have to search for it on here) - but the ECU almost certainly does not use that value. We know this because we can modify the indicated speed value via TuneECU. So we know the speedo pulse from the ECU is software driven and not a straight electro-mechanical pulse. Thus I would also suspect square wave.

1000 ppk would be fairly standard - You can easily fool an electronic speedo. 1000ppk is wheel circumference of 1 metre and 1 pulse per turn. It's a good start. If it's massively out - you'd see it in the first few meters of rolling.

A multimeter will not be much use - do you happen to have a digital rev counter lying about?. RPM can easily be calibrated to ppk . I do - but I admit to having odd collections

Click to expand...

Ah, I see.

The big problem for me at the moment is that the speedometer only shows a zero no matter the speed so I'm guessing that the pulse either is not at +5V or that I am missing something else.
No rev counters lying around unfortunately.

I'm thinking that I should be able to measure voltage between the speed signal wire and ground to see what the pulse looks like and then try to convert it using an Arduino in case it doesn't look like it should (e.g. +5V baseline and 0V pulse).