1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
What is the additive to look for good for wet clutches?
amsoil formulation?
- Thread starter doncuddy
- Start date
Tal
Living Legend
Choosing an Oil for Your Motorcycle
There are a few special problem areas for motorcycle oil. Most motorcycles have wet clutches, which means the motor oil runs through the clutch. If the motor oil has too much molybdenum in it, there are fears that the clutch can start slipping. No one I know has ever actually had this happen to them, but the warnings are all over your owners' manual and the oil companies' web pages. On the back of all certified oil cans is a circular stamp with the certification. Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the donut. These oils contain friction modifier additives that could cause clutch slipping over time. Essentially all 0w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 oils are energy conserving, and should not be used in your motorcycle.
Most motorcycles run the engine oil through the transmission, and the transmission gears are very hard on the oil's VII package. This means that over a couple thousand miles, the oil's viscosity can break down. Standard car oils are only good for typically 1500 miles before they've lost about half of their viscosity. Remember, 10w-40 oils contain a lot of VIIs which tend to shear in your transmission, so I believe 10w-40 oils should be avoided. You can't use 10w-30 because of the friction modifiers. This doesn't leave much. Commercial 15w-40 oils are a good choice, because they have relatively few VIIs which are the more expensive shear-stable sort. Synthetics typically don't contain much of a VII package, so shear is not as big an issue with them.
Some people use their motorcycles only sporadically. This means the oil can all drain completely into the sump, leaving no protective film on the bearings. The first start after a long period of non-use can be particularly hard on an engine. Film strength is very important if you're a sporadic rider.
There are several key advantages to using Synthetic Oils:
Synthetic oils have a higher viscosity index than mineral base oils. Synthetics have better resistance to thinning at high temperatures and thickening at low temperatures. Since synthetics have little or no VIIs, synthetics last longer in service without radical changes in viscosity.
Synthetics have a much higher film strength than petroleum oils, so it takes a lot longer for the oil to drain completely off your bearings and into your sump.
Diester synthetics are polar molecules with solvent properties which dissolve residues and combustion byproducts.
There are a few special problem areas for motorcycle oil. Most motorcycles have wet clutches, which means the motor oil runs through the clutch. If the motor oil has too much molybdenum in it, there are fears that the clutch can start slipping. No one I know has ever actually had this happen to them, but the warnings are all over your owners' manual and the oil companies' web pages. On the back of all certified oil cans is a circular stamp with the certification. Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the donut. These oils contain friction modifier additives that could cause clutch slipping over time. Essentially all 0w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 oils are energy conserving, and should not be used in your motorcycle.
Most motorcycles run the engine oil through the transmission, and the transmission gears are very hard on the oil's VII package. This means that over a couple thousand miles, the oil's viscosity can break down. Standard car oils are only good for typically 1500 miles before they've lost about half of their viscosity. Remember, 10w-40 oils contain a lot of VIIs which tend to shear in your transmission, so I believe 10w-40 oils should be avoided. You can't use 10w-30 because of the friction modifiers. This doesn't leave much. Commercial 15w-40 oils are a good choice, because they have relatively few VIIs which are the more expensive shear-stable sort. Synthetics typically don't contain much of a VII package, so shear is not as big an issue with them.
Some people use their motorcycles only sporadically. This means the oil can all drain completely into the sump, leaving no protective film on the bearings. The first start after a long period of non-use can be particularly hard on an engine. Film strength is very important if you're a sporadic rider.
There are several key advantages to using Synthetic Oils:
Synthetic oils have a higher viscosity index than mineral base oils. Synthetics have better resistance to thinning at high temperatures and thickening at low temperatures. Since synthetics have little or no VIIs, synthetics last longer in service without radical changes in viscosity.
Synthetics have a much higher film strength than petroleum oils, so it takes a lot longer for the oil to drain completely off your bearings and into your sump.
Diester synthetics are polar molecules with solvent properties which dissolve residues and combustion byproducts.
Jag
Living Legend
rocketjohn
Top Fuel
There is no additive good for clutches....it's what you want to avoid thats bad for clutches......Friction Modifiers....moto oil don't have them because they make the clutch slicky. Commercial oils such as Delo and Rotella usually don't have them. Problem is with those some will explicitly say MA2 and some do not. You need to KNOW that the oil you choose is MA2 compliant and the only way to be sure is read the package.
sonny
Living Legend
MOBIL 
Claviger
Aspiring Student
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So after this thread I started reading about oils again.
Bobistheoilguy and a few other sites offer good info.
Ultimately anything grade III+, IV, or V base stock will do well, but the best will be the “off road only” oils, they have more sulfur, zinc, and other additives the good old EPA is forcing companies to remove for street vehicles.
As a result there are some HDEO (heavy duty engine oil) options that still have a lot of good stuff in them, a few are motorcycle certified like rotella T, while others aren’t but are 100% suites to use in our motors like Mobil delvac 1300.
Bobistheoilguy and a few other sites offer good info.
Ultimately anything grade III+, IV, or V base stock will do well, but the best will be the “off road only” oils, they have more sulfur, zinc, and other additives the good old EPA is forcing companies to remove for street vehicles.
As a result there are some HDEO (heavy duty engine oil) options that still have a lot of good stuff in them, a few are motorcycle certified like rotella T, while others aren’t but are 100% suites to use in our motors like Mobil delvac 1300.
1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
doncuddy
soberdude
Thanks for the info claviger---so after doing the research--what brand of oil do you use and which formulation? don
Claviger
Aspiring Student
- Joined
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- 6,934
- Location
- Olympia Washington
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- '21 Z H2, '14 R3R, '02 Daytona 955i
It has Mobile 1 innit at the moment, but, i’ll Be going to Delvac next change I think.
warp9.9
Pocałuj mnie w dupę
I use what Megacycle Cams speaks well of. Red Line and Motul oils. Red line predominantly do to being able to buy it right off the shelf. The motul 300V 15w50 4rt has to be ordered only 10w40 is carried on the shelf 
