A look at the 2.5 Innards - DIY 20K mile service, including valve clearance check and shim replacement

Journeyman said:

Update: Buttoned her up last night and test rode this morning. A definite improvement! At first I thought it could be the placebo effect, after all that work but, no, it is definitely running more smoothly and strongly. I wouldn't think that a couple of tight valves would make much difference, so I think the timing must have been a tad off- now it's dead on!
All parts accounted for and not a single extra screw or bolt wondering where to go.

This project probably took five times longer than expected- waiting on parts, waiting on a tool that I failed to get in the first order, figuring out the compressors (with advice) on the camshafts, and then that dang clutch fiasco (trying to build pressure). That was the hardest and most frustrating of all, so at least the next time I won't have that to deal with and I'll have all the tools and shims ready to go. I will say that how things go together on this bike is very sequential. Getting things lined up and trying to fit big hands in small places to start screws, etc. ate up a good bit of time.

I'm hoping some of what I've learned will help someone else who decides to do their own 20K service. I need the written record too, because I have the memory of a gnat and don't want to start almost from scratch the next time.

I'm going to get some riding in and will come back and add more from where I left off from at some point soon. Just know that it can be done and if I can do it, so can you....

Click to expand...

Spooled73 said:

Sounds like a pretty involved job, considering all the tools you need & not having all the shims required etc might be easier just to get the Dealer to do it. I can't understand why you need valve clearances done @ 20K Yamaha clearances are done @ 40K & rarely need adjustment. Are they not set properly from new??

Click to expand...

• It IS a pretty involved job- definitely more involved than the same procedure on the 2.3s.
• The clearances on the Triumph are also checked/set at 20K, 40K, etc. Set properly at the factory, but they tighten up over time.
• If you dive in and don't want to be out of commission for a long while order a shim kit and all the other Triumph parts I've listed in advance.
• Just to get a Triumph dealership to check the valves is going to cost you over 1K US, according to reports from other members and if they actually swap shims it's going to be more like in the 2K range. Doing this procedure isn't for everyone, but there's great satisfaction in knowing it's done correctly while saving a boatload of money.
• My valves were out of spec- not by a lot, but out of spec and I knew they would only gradually get further out of adjustment. With the proper adjustment and the timing reset perfectly the bike absolutely ran better.
• If you want to flush your clutch fluid you will have to go in that deep. Have a look at it in the MC now and you'll be very surprised at how nasty it looks even at 10K miles. You can suck fluid out of the MC (don't go too low!) and add some fresh as a stop gap measure. Rinse and repeat periodically.
• I'm about to hit 40k and will give an update (and maybe more pictures or video) on how that goes

Journeyman said:

• It IS a pretty involved job- definitely more involved than the same procedure on the 2.3s.
• The clearances on the Triumph are also checked/set at 20K, 40K, etc. Set properly at the factory, but they tighten up over time.
• If you dive in and don't want to be out of commission for a long while order a shim kit and all the other Triumph parts I've listed in advance.
• Just to get a Triumph dealership to check the valves is going to cost you over 1K US, according to reports from other members and if they actually swap shims it's going to be more like in the 2K range. Doing this procedure isn't for everyone, but there's great satisfaction in knowing it's done correctly while saving a boatload of money.
• My valves were out of spec- not by a lot, but out of spec and I knew they would only gradually get further out of adjustment. With the proper adjustment and the timing reset perfectly the bike absolutely ran better.
• If you want to flush your clutch fluid you will have to go in that deep. Have a look at it in the MC now and you'll be very surprised at how nasty it looks even at 10K miles. You can suck fluid out of the MC (don't go too low!) and add some fresh as a stop gap measure. Rinse and repeat periodically.
• I'm about to hit 40k and will give an update (and maybe more pictures or video) on how that goes

Click to expand...